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Water in Oil
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simonlap
Brick Rider


Joined: 13 Jul 2011
Posts: 29
Location: Coventry UK

PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Or through the crankcase breather tube.

forgot about that one...........
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K1100rs 1992 model
F650 ST 1996 model
ride it like you stole it, fix it like it's your first girlfriend
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simonlap
Brick Rider


Joined: 13 Jul 2011
Posts: 29
Location: Coventry UK

PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Sure is dark but that could be a high detergent oil cleaning loads of crud and grunge out of a dirty interior and it is all suspended.

Does not look like there is water in there though. No froth or emulsion looking areas.

The oil that I took out before the rebuild was quite clean, you could see throught the oil in the sight glass. I have just taken the crank cover and cam covers off to inspect and the insides of the covers are black and smell like burned oil but the bike has never run hot or overheated. I change the oil every 3000 without fail since I owned it. Ex police bike used for training and well maintained. There is no frothing or emulsion but where did the coolant go? Twice? There are absolutely no coolant leaks externally.
Si.
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simonlap
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Joined: 13 Jul 2011
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Location: Coventry UK

PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can see an emulsion inside the seals but no oily residue anywhere in the coolant side so I'm goint to replace the seals while i'm at it.
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Inge K.
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Apr 2011
Posts: 458
Location: Norway

PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you got water/coolant in the oil it would turn into getting more and more grey instead of black.

Have you checked your radiator filler cap (gaskets and valves), have read about water/coolant have evaporated at this place when pressure have arised, then when cooling down...sucked the gasket(s) thight and be able to suck more coolant from the ekspansion tank.

Inge K.
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simonlap
Brick Rider


Joined: 13 Jul 2011
Posts: 29
Location: Coventry UK

PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will check them out tomorrow Inge.
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lee richter
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 05 Nov 2009
Posts: 83
Location: Orlando, FL

PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have any real amount of water in your oil there will be extensive condensation in the high areas of the crank case. IE the top (underside) of the fill cap. Remove the oil fill cap, stick your finger in the hole and carefully wipe around the top of the case. If there is water in there, area that have oil film, not bathed in oil, will have oil emulsified with water (steamed). It will be like creamed coffee in color and sticky. Pull the spark plugs and look at the ends for water drops and possible little dots of rust. When it was running any white smoke out the exhaust? IE. blown head gasket between combustion chamber and water jacket. When engine is shut down cooling system is still under pressure and will push water into the cylinder(s) past the rings and into the crank case. If you know someone with a garage or just a good collection of tools ask if you can beg, rent or steal a cooling system pressure tester. Remove the Oil Filter Access panel from the bottom of the oil pan and pressurize the cooling system and leave it for a while, the water has got to go someplace, in the oil pan or out on the floor. The Pics of the oil samples do not look like typical water emulsified oil. A K will generate enough heat in 200 miles that the oil should look like it came out of an expreso machine.
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Lee Richter
Orlando, FL
I like flying, HIGH or low, Wings or Not
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simonlap
Brick Rider


Joined: 13 Jul 2011
Posts: 29
Location: Coventry UK

PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lee, there are no oily residues in and around the filler cap nor any emulsion except inbetween the water/oil pump casing in middle of the two seals.
Si.
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simonlap
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Joined: 13 Jul 2011
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Location: Coventry UK

PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2011 5:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I checked the 'weep' hole with a drill and reached 58mm so assumed all was fine. Now I have the pump on the bench, there is a chamber at the end of the weep hole and then going off at 45 degrees is another hole which goes to the gallery space between the two seals and its 47mm long. Mine was blocked solid (I had to drill out the crud) so when the water seal failed I had no seepage to tell me of seal failure. If you think that ensuring the outside weep hole is clear then dont forget the inner one may be blocked, there is no way to check the inner one without taking the pump off.

First pic shows the weep hole chamber, accessible from bottom of pump so if you shove anything up this hole it will bottom out inside this chamber.



This pic shows access to the hole that goes up to the oil water gallery between the seals at a 45 degree angle.


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merlin geikie
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 26 Dec 2008
Posts: 343
Location: Lismore far north coast nsw australia

PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2011 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simonlap is showing us how to be a good mechanic:
Quote:
Mine was blocked solid (I had to drill out the crud) so when the water seal failed I had no seepage to tell me of seal failure. If you think that ensuring the outside weep hole is clear then dont forget the inner one may be blocked, there is no way to check the inner one without taking the pump off.


Thanks Simon, that is the trick then, thanks so much for sharing it with us and the pics are excellent.

All the best Mate and GOOD work, from downunder oz Wink Laughing
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simonlap
Brick Rider


Joined: 13 Jul 2011
Posts: 29
Location: Coventry UK

PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The results are as follow.
1. loss of coolant
2. oil very dirty
3. strip oil pump out
4. All seals, o rings are brittle and they easily snapped when removed.
5. emulsion in oil water gallery that seperates oil and water in the casing, blocked weep hole from gallery.
6. changed seals with a modified seal kit from BMW which uses a shorter impeller spacer.
7. Put it all back together
8. Inspect radiator filler cap and find that the smaller washer is perished and has expanded and no longer fits the top of the filler so top marks go to Inge K for suggesting evaporative loss at this position. Thanks to all on K11OG. Catch you all at the next problem.
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merlin geikie
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 26 Dec 2008
Posts: 343
Location: Lismore far north coast nsw australia

PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simonlap awards an honour:

Quote:
top marks go to Inge K for suggesting evaporative loss at this position.


Nice work Inge K Wink

SO the ol radiator cap Rolling Eyes mmmm good to know Wink Laughing Very Happy

all the very best in the rest of the riding season, from downunder oz
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Inge K.
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 30 Apr 2011
Posts: 458
Location: Norway

PostPosted: Wed Jul 20, 2011 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, to both of you. Embarassed Embarassed

Inge K.
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