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PR3's on STOCK LT rims
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Sonu
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 15 Jan 2004
Posts: 400
Location: San Jose, CA

PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 2:00 am    Post subject: PR3's on STOCK LT rims Reply with quote

Guys,

I ordered a set of PR3's from Motorcycle Superstore & they showed up in 3 days Smile

110/80ZR-18 for the front
150/70ZR-17 for the rear

These fit on the stock LT rims Very Happy
Thanks to Bill a.k.a. "whyoldbill" and Jeff a.k.a. "old guy old bike" for the early trials with this tire size on the rear.

This was the first time that I took the wheels on & off myself and had a motorcycle tire shop do the mount/balancing.

Instructions in the owners manual for changing wheels are good. Couple of tips......
1) Put a 1/2" board under the center stand & the rear wheel will come off without having to remove mud guard.
2) Once the rear wheel is back on have a helper apply weight on the rear seat to tip the bike backwards & take the weight of the front wheel. Then install a wooden block below the engine to support the bike. At this point both the wheels will be off the ground & you can remove the front easily.


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old guy old bike
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 18 Jul 2007
Posts: 373
Location: Lisbon, OH

PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Please keep us posted on the PR3's.
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2011 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I put those same sizes on my '95LT this year in the PR2 line. Needed them before the PR3's were available.
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E T
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 21 Jan 2010
Posts: 265
Location: Colbert Wa

PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 5:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just put the same size on my LT stock rims, but they are Pr2's, Instead of using all those blocks, I just use a 2x4 on top of my floor jack, jack it up and it will hold the front end up while both are off, and you can raise and lower to what you need.

I always remove my rims myself, While you were in there, did you check your brake pads? That is the perfect time to check it out and replace them if necessary. Checked mine while i had the rims off and the rear was almost gone, so changed it, fronts were about 45 to 50 percent so will keep a eye on them..
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Sonu
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Joined: 15 Jan 2004
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

E T wrote:
I just use a 2x4 on top of my floor jack, jack it up and it will hold the front end up while both are off, and you can raise and lower to what you need.


Hi ET. Thanks for the tip. I started out in this mode but did not do a good job placing the jack. The bike was shifting its weight onto a single leg of the center stand so I went to the blocks. I'll experiment with the location of the jack & get it right next time.

E T wrote:
While you were in there, did you check your brake pads?


Will do the next time I try this. Changing brake pads is the next thing I need to learn.



Quick question: The riders manual called for greasing the front axle. Is there a specific type of grease that I should use?
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 1:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd just use bearing or lithium grease. It's only for sliding it in and out. The wheel turns on it's bearings, not the axle.
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mnb
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 14, 2011 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So a 150 isn't too wide?

It's 7mm shorter (14mm if measured from ground to top of tire), so it will lower your top speed a little. Should make it easier to wheelie... Laughing
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E T
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Joined: 21 Jan 2010
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 2:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mnb wrote:
So a 150 isn't too wide?

It's 7mm shorter (14mm if measured from ground to top of tire), so it will lower your top speed a little. Should make it easier to wheelie... Laughing

No it's not, fits in there with room to spare, and looks better on the rear fender also.. Very Happy
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E T
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 2:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sonu wrote:
E T wrote:
I just use a 2x4 on top of my floor jack, jack it up and it will hold the front end up while both are off, and you can raise and lower to what you need.


Hi ET. Thanks for the tip. I started out in this mode but did not do a good job placing the jack. The bike was shifting its weight onto a single leg of the center stand so I went to the blocks. I'll experiment with the location of the jack & get it right next time.

E T wrote:
While you were in there, did you check your brake pads?


Will do the next time I try this. Changing brake pads is the next thing I need to learn.



Quick question: The riders manual called for greasing the front axle. Is there a specific type of grease that I should use?


'The brake pads are very easy to replace, only prob i had was figuring out how to get them out, but thanks to this board i found out and it was very easy, You should have checked or done them while hyou were in there, so much easier that way. the fronts I'm sure will be just as easy..

As far as the grease, just a thin layer of bearing grease does the job.
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mtnroads
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2011 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have some concerns about that setup, having considered it myself for my LT. With a 150 tire, you are using a 6" wide tire on a 3" wide rim and that is probably exceeding a design spec somewhere. First, you are curling a 150mm tire more than intended to get on that narrow rim, leading to a narrower contact patch. This could increase braking distance and tire wear. Secondly, radials prefer wider rims, and you are putting them on narrow ones, which may result in instability, since you have mucked with the intended tire profile.

I realize it's only a 10mm diff, but I don't think the original rim/tire combo was optimum to begin with, and they were using bias tires, not radials. Will it fit - sure, tires are flexible. Is it optimum? In my opinion it can't be. I think a better bet is staying with bias ply in a 140/70-17 since they are still available. Just my opinion, as mentioned I went through the same thought process/temptation when looking at tires for my LT and decided it would be better to locate a 4.5" rear rim, which is what I did. Big improvement over stock.

Be curious to know how it works for you though.
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E T
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 5:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mtnroads wrote:
I have some concerns about that setup, having considered it myself for my LT. With a 150 tire, you are using a 6" wide tire on a 3" wide rim and that is probably exceeding a design spec somewhere. First, you are curling a 150mm tire more than intended to get on that narrow rim, leading to a narrower contact patch. This could increase braking distance and tire wear. Secondly, radials prefer wider rims, and you are putting them on narrow ones, which may result in instability, since you have mucked with the intended tire profile.

I realize it's only a 10mm diff, but I don't think the original rim/tire combo was optimum to begin with, and they were using bias tires, not radials. Will it fit - sure, tires are flexible. Is it optimum? In my opinion it can't be. I think a better bet is staying with bias ply in a 140/70-17 since they are still available. Just my opinion, as mentioned I went through the same thought process/temptation when looking at tires for my LT and decided it would be better to locate a 4.5" rear rim, which is what I did. Big improvement over stock.

Be curious to know how it works for you though.


Well so far its working great, Have taken it through some canyons, (About 175 miles through angeles national forest hwys, and also the fwy, I am running 40psi in the rear, and 38 in the front..

Do have some issues and high speeds, but from what i have read on another board, I just need to put more air in it. I do tend to ride very aggressive in the canyons with the friends i ride with, and have done a few peg scrapers, and am totally happy with my choice.

As far as mileage on these, I have only put about 4 or 500 miles on them so far, so cant tell you about the longevity of them..
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old guy old bike
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm on my 2nd set of PR2 without any problems. Will not go back to bias ply tires. Got a little over 10K on my first set.
Jeff
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Sonu
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mtnroads wrote:
I have some concerns about that setup, .......
I think a better bet is staying with bias ply in a 140/70-17 .......
decided it would be better to locate a 4.5" rear rim, which is what I did. Big improvement over stock.


Thanks for voicing your concerns. I do not share them but appreciate the discussion.

I just can't imagine going back to bias ply Surprised . I've had two sets of radials now (Michelin front & Avon in the back) & moving to radials was the single best improvement in handling for the bike. Both sets gave me the same mileage as bias ply. Tons of other K11OG members have reported similar experience with moving to bias ply.

As to wheel size. I cant argue against a wider rear giving you a larger contact patch. If it was a drop in replacement I'd consider it. Sticking with the original rims is cheaper & easier so I'm starting there.

I've only put on ~200 miles & will report back with more mileage. I have had no issues so far.

Sanjiv
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gladstone
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've only ever achieved a really stable high-speed ride on radials when I've had an RS rear wheel, and even better when matched to an RS front.

Radials on the stock rims (standard size tyres - BT and Azaro) have always been unstable for me at high speeds.

The problems appears only at steady high speeds - acceleration and deceleration seems to be stable.

Cheers
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 3:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have PR2s on an LT front wheel and RS rear wheel. Stable at all speeds. I ran Azaros on the stock rims before that and that was stable too.
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Sonu
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mtnroads wrote:
....radials prefer wider rims, and you are putting them on narrow ones, which may result in instability......


Ran it up to triple digits & did not experience any instability. YMMV

Sanjiv
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mtnroads
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2011 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad they're working ok with that rim. I went to the wider rear rim and radials at the same time (just recently) and the difference was huge. I'm running the new BT-023 front and rear. I just can't get over how neutral handling it feels, which must be the radials. Cheers.
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E T
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 1:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sonu wrote:
mtnroads wrote:
....radials prefer wider rims, and you are putting them on narrow ones, which may result in instability......


Ran it up to triple digits & did not experience any instability. YMMV

Sanjiv

What pressure you running in your tires??
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merlin geikie
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 7:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The K12rs with the 5 1/2 inch rear rim takes a 180mm tyre which is about 7 1/2 inches and that is stock standard.

Tyre pressures on the K12 run at something like 42psi.

So IMO you have a fair bit of leeway with the rim width vs the tyre width as long as you keep the tyre pressures nice and HIGH.

Some folk experiencing high speed instability could be experiences the results of worn SHOCKS.

There are those who say to replace shocks each 30K mi and that peg scraping is a symptom, on these large beemers, of worn shocks n forks lowering the ride height and being in a wallowing mode. Rolling Eyes
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E T
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 17, 2011 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

merlin geikie wrote:
The K12rs with the 5 1/2 inch rear rim takes a 180mm tyre which is about 7 1/2 inches and that is stock standard.

Tyre pressures on the K12 run at something like 42psi.

So IMO you have a fair bit of leeway with the rim width vs the tyre width as long as you keep the tyre pressures nice and HIGH.

Some folk experiencing high speed instability could be experiences the results of worn SHOCKS.

There are those who say to replace shocks each 30K mi and that peg scraping is a symptom, on these large beemers, of worn shocks n forks lowering the ride height and being in a wallowing mode. Rolling Eyes


Thanks for the info on tire pressure, I was running 40 in mine (im a big guy) and thought lowering it would help which it didnt, but from what i have read on another board, seems most have gone to 42R and 40F for the best.

The wallowing feeling i have gotten has only been on these tires, I was running Metzler ME880 on the rear and Lazertech on the front and never had any problem "wallowing", and tend to ride nearing the triple digits or in them alot.

As far as the peg scraping, Well, you know how it can get in the canyons. LOL LOL
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