K11 Owners Group

m1ks

A general query, i'll be doing an oil change on the K1100 in the not too distant future.
Now in my years of nechanical experience with cars and bikes i've always drained the oil hot, (as it's thinner / flows better etc), however I've noticed that the K takes an age to drain back to the sump, after a good run i'll park on the mainstand and check the level 20 min later, it's just above 1/2, check it following morning it's near the top of the red circle.

What are peoples thoughts regarding a cold drain or any experience.
Logic says i'd get more of the old stuff out based on my above observations but good ol' common sense says do what you've always done and warm it.

kbmwrs · Posted: Fri Oct 16, 2009 1:12 pm Post subject:

I always just changed the oil...cool or just warm. It didn't matter.
Had 88k miles on the engine whe I sold it.
On the center stand and while changing the filter most of the oil will be drained anyways.

You do know the filter is inside the engine right?
_________________
Mike Gullery
"Beemerhead"
'06 K1200GT
KOG#43

Flying Duck · Posted: Fri Oct 16, 2009 1:26 pm Post subject:

Remove the drain plug and filter cover. (Have the pan under the filter cover too.) Then go have a beer.

It's not like a few ounces of old oil is going to poison anything.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
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jpberens1994K1100RS · Posted: Fri Oct 16, 2009 1:28 pm Post subject: oil change

Guess it kinda depends on what YOU like to do.
If your familier with the bike and all is swell and the oil just needs to be changed. Do it cold, all the oil that will drain should be in the sump.

Me, If I have time, I drain it hot, but it's draining a couple hours. While it's doing that, I clean & lube the side & center stands. Then I do an general inspection of everything while I'm laying on the ground with a bright shop light. Once that is all done, I clean everything that normally does not get washed. Front of engine, sides, ect. Ditto for the belly pan on my RS, darn close to doing the truck bed liner thing to it.

When I'm all done or done as much as I'm going todo cleaning & inspecting, I change out the filter & button eveything up again.

I have not experienced the hidden oil syndrome some have. Mine does not vary by much at all from hot stop to over night sit.

Long as you DO change it, that's a GOOD thing.
_________________
1993 K1100RS that I'd rather be riding FAST!
2014 Moto Guzzi Norge

Geoff · Posted: Fri Oct 16, 2009 7:26 pm Post subject:

I'll sometimes blow compressed air into the oil fill hole to help drain residual oil from the motor.
_________________
2000 R1100RT
2008 H-D Electra Glide Ultra Classic

BobZ(IL) · Posted: Fri Oct 16, 2009 8:34 pm Post subject:

A slight bit of old-oil contamination makes the new oil easier to read in the site glass. Smile

_________________
'93 K1100LT
'78 R100S
'05 R1200GS
BMWMOA, CRBMWOA, ABC, K11OG #997

Live well, do good work, enjoy the ride.

RobWheatley · Posted: Fri Oct 16, 2009 8:37 pm Post subject:

Go for a good run and get her nice and hot, home, center stand, cup of coffee or tea & read the forum then drain the oil, it will still be warm enough to thin the oil but not too hot to burn ya pinkies, remove the filter and have another cuppa, then re assemble and refill.
When I did the output shaft on my LT she was still dripping oil 3 days later....

I have put synthetic oil in my LT as opposed to the semi I was using, Oil consumption is way down on what it used to be, was about 1L per 1000 miles, now about 0.25L per 1000, go figure that!!!!!

Rob
_________________
1999 K1100LTIC Smooth and Quiet Smile

Cruise, BFD & HID
1996 K1100RS. dead but not forgotten.

larryb22 · Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 10:02 am Post subject:

Always use a NEW crush washer on the drain plug. They're cheap and will save you some clean up time if the old one doesn't seal.
Larry
_________________
2008 Yamaha XV250
S/W Michigan USA

old guy old bike · Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 5:26 pm Post subject:

I never mess with the crush washer. Leave the drain plug in and just remove the filter cover. Take two bolts out, put your pan down and then crack the third loose.
Jeff
_________________
1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods

Phil Marvin · Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 9:10 am Post subject:

Hi, Jeff,
I'm glad to see I'm not the only one who saves $.50 each oil change. I haven't loosened the drain plug on my bikes for the past few years. Since I change filter with each oil change and have to remove the cover anyway, I just drain the oil through the cover plate. What's the difference other than not having to remove and replace another fitting, along with another gasket?
_________________
Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin in El Paso, TX
'94 K75A/3
'95 K75RTP

old guy old bike · Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:01 pm Post subject:

Agreed, plus I have a lot more confidence in the o-ring resealing. I give it and the cover a good cleaning in the parts washer and it is ready to go. You can just pull the o-ring through your fingers to check for nicks or cuts.
Jeff
_________________
1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods

kbmwrs · Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 1:51 pm Post subject:

Mmmm I always removed the drain plug along with the filter cover. Never did replace the crush washer in 9 years and it never leaked. Lucky? Maybe.
_________________
Mike Gullery
"Beemerhead"
'06 K1200GT
KOG#43

Ernie-NH · Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 2:36 pm Post subject: Oil change time ....

Good morning all...

As a newbie to "K" bikes, I copied out Flying Duck's " General Maintenance Guide" for newbies from his post on the stickies... He mentioned that the Bosch filter 72161 is a good substitute for the BMW OEM filter, and I have found also that I can get the WIX manufactured filter under the NAPA # 1348 nearly everywhere. The Napa/Wix ( $6.80 ) is more expensive than the Bosch ($3.50 ) but it is at least a second alternative.. What do you guys think ??

Best regards.............// Ernie-NH
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'11 G650gs
'95 K1100LT
'76 R100/7

leecow · Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 12:43 pm Post subject:

I see that the Wix 51348 is $3.89 from FleetFilter.

http://www.fleetfilter.com/filter/wix-oil-filters/51348.html
_________________
Lee
'93 K1100RS

malcolmt · Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 2:02 pm Post subject:

I notice a habit of mine when changing oil in my K's isnt mentioned.
I like to lean the bike over to the right for a minute or two to coax old oil out of the cam covers.

Does this sort of say its ot really nessesary !!!!

Malcolm(t)
Joburg, Souf Efrika
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A Bike on the road is worth two
in the shed
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lee richter · Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 4:30 pm Post subject:

Those of you that are using other brands of filters, WIX, NAPA, and what ever, You have not had a problem with the paint coming off?? I have read a lot of threads on the use of non-OEM filters and that has been a consistent comment. IBMWR has a lot of information on various filters and what comes close to factory filters.
_________________
Lee Richter
Orlando, FL
I like flying, HIGH or low, Wings or Not
182 Texas Tail Dragger
'39 J3 Cub
2000 HD Soft Tail Sold
2002 R1150R
1994 K1100LT

dave n · Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 8:14 pm Post subject: Oil Filter

The Purolator L14610 also works and has a good paint job on it too - no

paint flaking off here.
_________________
Dave Norris KOG 248
1999 Cagiva Gran Canyon
1993 K1100LT w/Hannigan sidecar
2008 Suzuki DR650

SugarHillCTD · Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 9:06 pm Post subject:

Mobil M-102. Peel off the label, good to go.
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John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.

Jim · Posted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 9:39 pm Post subject:

Saltcreek · Posted: Sat Apr 30, 2011 7:09 am Post subject:

I just have to say this. I have a tiller with a 5 hp Briggs engine that I haven't changed the oil in 25 years and it runs fine. Oil changes may be overrated. I'm just sayin'...
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Jim

1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold Sad

2009 Wilderness Systems Zephyr 155 ST
2002 Litespeed titanium