K11 Owners Group

552255

1997 K1100 LT-SE, 20,000 Mi. "para lever" i think.

Was going to 'Lube Splines' in my '97 K1100, and found that it's not the 'same' as other K bikes(and thus the photos/directions i could find), so got cold feet....Its a two piece, u-jointed affair?

Got worried about 'pins'-'needles' u-joints etc., and didn't understand the two 'release' bolts for the shaft removal...must heat them up one at a time?, etc. ( i got to this point, removal of final drive, then stopped lest i screw something up)

Sounds/looks much more daunting than an earlier k bike shaft...so..

1. Does it have splines(shaft) that need Moly lubed as reg. maintenance?

2. If so, removal of shaft...how to, do i need to pull the whole 'sleeved swingarm' off bike or does the shaft pop-out of it like the older types?

3. Alignment when replacing--phasing- put back in 'same' position?

4. the bike has only 20k, but is a 1997, is the factory grease needing re-lubed? (drys out?)

read all i could find, but am wondering if i should pull the final off, then shaft out to re-lube or is it a bad idea...ie. delicate pins/needes small parts etc..--a real PIA! and thus trounble.

Any info would be great, thought i'd do some pre-vent maintenance here on the ice planet Hoth...

Eric
Lincoln, NE
_________________
1997 K1100LT-SE
1996 K1100RS-SE
"Black & Silver Duo"
Lincoln, NE

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 5:12 pm Post subject:

When you say spline lube:
1. are you wanting to do just the drive shaft splines?
2. are you wanting also to do the transmission input shaft splines?

You should be careful of the split driveshaft phasing if you remove it.
There's no needle pins or anything like that to loose. I should "pop" out like the older shafts from the rear of the transmission.

If you don't want to mess with the drive shaft and you are after the transmission input shaft splines it is possible to pull the transmission without removing the driveshaft and swingarm assy.
When I did my transmission splines as 25K miles I left the swingarm/driveshaft assy attatched to the transmission.

Yes the '97's are a "paralever" swingarm design.
The heating of the bolts is to loosen/soften the locktight that was used.

Not sure what books you may have but the newer clymers does have some pics and instructions for the paralever arm.
Make sure you have a good torque wrench when putting it back together. How is it said "tight's tight and too tight's stripped" especially with aluminum.
_________________
Ride safe.

1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

Flying Duck · Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 5:24 pm Post subject:

I've taken quite a few of them apart and no heating is required. Just get a 12mm Allen wrench and a two foot section of pipe for leverage.

Drain the gear oil from the final drive first. Otherwise when you set it down the gear oil will leak out of the breather cap at the top.

Yes, you need to pull the swing arm to get the front half of the drive shaft off of it's circlip that's in the splines. Be careful not to push the bike forward off of the centerstand.

The rear half of the drive shaft also has a circlip so it needs to be pried off of the final drive.

Driveshaft phasing:
http://www.k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6117
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

552255 · Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 12:37 am Post subject:

Have successfully got the final drive off, abs off, etc.

Am now continuing on to the goal of sliding tranny back to get some molygrease on that spline....

the final drive bearing 'release' bolts were an real bi_atch, the 'manual' was not detailed about the little 'hidden' allen head on the outer side, and the inner side bolt/bearing was a really froze, used a torch to heat up and it looks like the threads are damaged...but reusable. The rear spline looks pretty 'dry'..otherwise ok.

On to the next steps...starter, alternator, centerstand, exhaust?
Eric
_________________
1997 K1100LT-SE
1996 K1100RS-SE
"Black & Silver Duo"
Lincoln, NE

CrashBar · Joined: 17 Feb 2008 Posts: 17 Location: Sommerville MA

http://k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8251&highlight=

Watch taking that exhaust off.....when I took mine off I discovered two cracked header pipes...made the folks at Remus real happy Laughing

_________________
1993 K1100LT (116,000 miles and counting)
1973 Honda CB350F
1978 Honda CB550K
1973 Triumph TR5T

552255 · Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 3:17 pm Post subject:

First time Spline Lube Hints:

Successfully did the three spline lube. Its a fairly tough thing to do the first time, requires a 12mm allen socket to get that rear bearing pin out. (they are not generally sold at auto parts stores-'truck parts/tools place had one)

Don't forget to place all wires back...its easy to push them out of way and...forget/not see. The starter has more than you think at the base(ground wires).

Clean out starter if you pull off...while your there sort of thing.
Label wiring, and wire tie up rear caliper, right footpeg/rear brake,
to frame. Coolant tank is pretty light, and motronic thingy can just flop out of way. Labels bolts to remember where they go back...its easier than guessing.

Muffler header bolts released easy after overnite soaking with penetrating oil. (some of the bolts came out with nut froze on) ABS II unit is just a PIA, no easy way to get that thing out, label where the wires go to replace. The cover slides off with a nail or somthing thru the hole u pop out. And the footpeg rest/unit does not come out easy, without some sliding/moving of tranny rearward...or some other other puzzling motion. Use (2)-M8 bolts as guide pins to slide tranny rearward, with support underneath, to get to that spline and pushrod arrangement.

Used combination of floor jack under engine, sawhorse to hold rear bike up, and built the 4x4/plywood tie-down unit using straps to hold the front of bike at upper fork brace. A 2x8 board under center stand (before it comes off) allows you to get a longs ways...i marked the rear drive spline/driveshaft placement and rotation as i took it off-hopefully installed back the same. (see 'driveshaft phasing')

Make sure you have lots of time..it could take days of intermittent work (label things!) and its easy to forget 'how things go back'. Its a full re-bleed of brake lines(fronts were easier) too.

Get the manual available online (pdf) and consult with the good fellows here if you get stuck, sometimes just some words of advice are enough to get past a tricky point. Many posts available for advice.
Need metric allens, torque wrench, loctite. ( a large crescent or pipe pliers worked fine to remove large lock nuts)

Now, on to replacing my leaking fork seal...good thing it a blizzard outside.

Eric
Lincoln, NE
_________________
1997 K1100LT-SE
1996 K1100RS-SE
"Black & Silver Duo"
Lincoln, NE

Flying Duck · Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 5:56 pm Post subject:

What tie down rig? All you need to do is slide a sawhorse through the frame and the bike's not going anywhere.

_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Flying Duck · Posted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 5:58 pm Post subject:

552255 · Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 12:12 pm Post subject:

Yes--what Flying Duck shows with sawhorse...do you then even need to remove center/kick stand--to slide tranny rearward? That would save some work. (check kick shut-off switch wire for slack)

First remove ABS, Batt, etc., jack up bike off centerstand-a little, put sawhorse thru guts area under frame...and your braced. That was a lot of the battle. Jacking bike under engine is 'wobbly' so i tied down front--looks like unnecessary.

A picture is worth a thousand words... see above!

Hope this all helps another newbie bike wrencher out.

Thanks
_________________
1997 K1100LT-SE
1996 K1100RS-SE
"Black & Silver Duo"
Lincoln, NE

jr'sbmw · Big Brick Rider Joined: 04 Nov 2008 Posts: 54 Location: Fl

You don't need to remove the ABS unit. Someone else posted this a while back. I have a 97 LT and have removed the transmission twice for general inspection, spline lub, and replacing seals. Lift the ABS unit up a little, hold it up with wire, remove the fasteners holding the sheet metal tray, and remove the sheet metal tray.

RAL88 · Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 4:05 pm Post subject:

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 10:40 pm Post subject:

True, you don't HAVE to remove the abs2 unit to remove the transmission.

I left the unit in when I did my 1st spline lube on my '97, primarily because I couldn't figure out how to remove the cover over the power wiring section.
The following year when I did the lube on my '95 I figured out how the cover comes off and I removed the abs unit and it was a whole lot easier to remove the swing arm and transmission with it out of the way, not worrying if it would fall or not.

My personal opinion is that it's just easier to not have to deal with the unit hanging there getting in the way.
_________________
Ride safe.

1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

552255 · Posted: Sun Feb 13, 2011 7:36 pm Post subject:

Post spline lube test ride:

Absolute difference in shifting of bike. Its much more smooth on the downshifts for sure. This bike has only 19,500 miles (1997 K1100LT) and was never lubed after factory, the grease was very nearly dry to non-existant on all the splines. The shaft even seems smotther/quieter now.

Must not be only a mileage thing...
_________________
1997 K1100LT-SE
1996 K1100RS-SE
"Black & Silver Duo"
Lincoln, NE

Kneophyte1100 · Joined: 22 Apr 2009 Posts: 5 Location: Elkridge,MD

I had success w. 12mm allen and 1/2in by 24in steel gas-nipple/pipe for leverage. Though that left side pivot pin complained mightily coming out! As far as the swing-arm, I remove mine because the universal joint busted in half. So I can't say if swing arm must come off for drive shaft to piull out. But just pulling it out. I had to jerk the remaining front half uni-joint pretty hard w/ pump pliers to get the female & male splines to seperate.
_________________
96 k1100rs

Flying Duck · Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2011 12:35 pm Post subject: