K11 Owners Group

[DJS]

Or alternator cush drive dampers, if one is being formal.

I want to replace them on my 99 K11 LT, but it seems that there's an awful lot of stuff to remove. The Clymer book says stuff like, "pull the alternator straight back.." but doesn't say that there is a bit of frame and a tray supporting the ABS, right in the way.

What's the minimum that I have to remove? Can I get away with just the support frame, or does the tray have to be taken out?
What about the ABS?

This is a 50A alternator, so not small. And it's ABS 2.

Has anyone with the later model done one of these?

[Scott_Anderson]

Well, IIRC from when I pulled the alt out of the '95 to replace the regulator.

I had to remove the battery.

I was able to leave the ABS and bracket in the bike, BUT
I had to remove one of the brake lines from the ABS to the rear brakes.
I don't remember if it was the one from the master to the ABS or if it was the one from the ABS to the caliper.

Either way you will be looking at bleeding the rear brakes when you are done.

Some, and I mean just a very little bit, of black RTV sealant, or anything that's sticky, to help hold the "nuts" in the Alt cup when trying to put it back in.
Another installation aid is some grease or moly lube or anything else slippery on the nuts that engage the drive cogs, to help the fingers slip into the gaps of the "nuts".

Just remember that with any of the sticky stuff or the slickum stuff, use the least possible, and equal, so as to not throw off the balance too much.
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Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

[DJS]

Thanks for that, Scott.

I did wonder about that brake pipe. I suppose I'll have to get the system bled afterwards.
The rattling of the alternator is getting to me. It stops me hearing all the other rattles.

[Al.]

With great stress and pain I manages it without doing all that.
Including a lot of stange words not in any dictionary.

[DJS]

When I last took a look, I managed to pull back the alternator far enough to let the nutz drop out. When I realised that I couldn't get the alternator out altogether, I managed to get them back by using double-sided tape to stick them to the drive. I could then get the alt. back. But the nutz were worn, so it would be easier.
I wonder if there's any chance that I could do the same with new nutz?

Will I need to learn the strange words?

I think I may have heard some of them before.
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K1100LT 99 Ex Police
BSA C15 in bits
Giant SCR2
Skye 17
Transit Connect

[Flying Duck]

[DJS]

Well, I know you're all dying to hear what I decided to do.

After work today, I thought I'd see if I could re-perform the d/s tape trick, or something like it. The d/s didn't work, as the new nutz were too round and didn't allow enough contact.
So I tried a dab of RTV. This seemed to work fine, I rotated the drive a couple of times to make sure everything was central.
The next problem was how to get the alternator back without the cup knocking out the nutz. What I needed was a really good lubricant.. one which wouldn't harm rubber.. and leave no residue.. hmm.

If you're ahead of me, the answer is yes. That kind of lubricant!

So applied a sufficient amount, using a paintbrush. And it worked a treat!
With very little jiggling, the alternator slid back with no problem.

So no need to dismantle any ABS or remove any pipes.

I told my wife what I used and that I'd have to let you know. She said "Do these people have your details?"


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K1100LT 99 Ex Police
BSA C15 in bits
Giant SCR2
Skye 17
Transit Connect

[Scott_Anderson]