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6899
Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 11 Oct 2006
Posts: 103
Location: Indianapolis, IN
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 Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:58 am Post subject: |
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Jeff,
Had same problems with my K that you found - oil leak contaminated my clutch.
I've ordered the clutch centering tool from San Jose BMW - $39 + $15 shipping = $55.
http://www.sjbmw.com/parts.asp?mid=41#http://www.sjbmw.com/parts.asps=store&bid=&mid=31&src=&p=1&pid=394
If should be here in 1 week and if I get done with my K1100LT before you, I'd be happy to loan it to you.
V/R
Martin
_________________
1996 K1100LT, 73K (bought at 61K on 2006)
1977 R100/7, bought new, rode 97K in 29 yrs before parting out
1970 R50/5, bought used, rode 40K & sold
BMWMOA #6899 since 1976
Indy BMW Club since 1975 |
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drikko
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 20 Nov 2009
Posts: 1966
Location: Brisbane, OZ
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| Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 1:21 pm Post subject: |
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Glad you aren't an accountant or work for the tax department!! $39 + $15 = $54!!
_________________
K1100RS '97
Laverda RGS 1000 '84
Jim Young Trailer Sailer 5.7M WB
DISCLAIMER:- Anything I say may have been when I was drunk so please don't take it personally.
'Bigamy is having one wife/husband too many. Monogamy is the same.'
Oscar Wilde |
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old guy old bike
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 18 Jul 2007
Posts: 373
Location: Lisbon, OH
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| Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:45 pm Post subject: |
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Hell, around here if he worked for the tax department the total would have been closer to $74.
Martin,
Have mine all buttoned back up. Waiting on the body shop to do their thing. Going to have a go at the valves while I wait for the paint work. New gaskets ordered. Won't know about the bucket thicknesses until I run the valves.
Had a little goofy deal today. Mr rear rotor was trashed so I ordered a used one from a wrecker. They sent me one from a newer bike and it was over .100" thicker than my old one. Pushed the pads out and measured, plenty of room there. Problem was the opening in the caliper body was smaller than the disc. A #2 mill bastard and half an hour later, Bob's your uncle.
Jeff
_________________
1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods |
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6899
Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 11 Oct 2006
Posts: 103
Location: Indianapolis, IN
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| Posted: Sun Feb 21, 2010 12:34 pm Post subject: |
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Actually I'm an accountant but forgot to round up the $39.99 to $40...now I work as an auditor.
Question: What is 1 + 1?
Bookkeeper: exactly 2
Auditor: oh between 1 and 3
Accounant: What ever you want!
Jeff, hope all your K work turns out well.
Martin
_________________
1996 K1100LT, 73K (bought at 61K on 2006)
1977 R100/7, bought new, rode 97K in 29 yrs before parting out
1970 R50/5, bought used, rode 40K & sold
BMWMOA #6899 since 1976
Indy BMW Club since 1975 |
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bmwmick
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 07 Jun 2003
Posts: 907
Location: Tucson, AZ
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| Posted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 1:07 pm Post subject: |
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| old guy old bike wrote: | Hell, around here if he worked for the tax department the total would have been closer to $74.
Had a little goofy deal today. Mr rear rotor was trashed so I ordered a used one from a wrecker. They sent me one from a newer bike and it was over .100" thicker than my old one. Pushed the pads out and measured, plenty of room there. Problem was the opening in the caliper body was smaller than the disc. A #2 mill bastard and half an hour later, Bob's your uncle.
Jeff |
Jeff,
Everyone knows Lisbon is a high income area. 
My best guess on your rear rotor is that "wrecker" you found sent you
a rear rotor off a K1200LT. They are lots thicker than our 1100 rotors.
_________________
Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ |
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old guy old bike
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 18 Jul 2007
Posts: 373
Location: Lisbon, OH
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| Posted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 2:08 pm Post subject: |
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Mick,
Lisbon! High income! How have I missed it all of these years? Oh wait, it all went west when you left the county.
I really don't know what the rotor is off of. I called the wrecker back and they could not pin it down either. The guy that sold me the part is no longer there. They also could not find a caliper off of a K11 that was wide enough to swallow the rotor.
They told me I could send the rotor back for a refund. I just couldn't do it as the rotor is in really sweet condition. I could screw up a hand full of used calipers for the cost of a good rotor. I was prepared to split it open and put it on the milling machine if I had to. Lucky the file took care of it.
Hey, spring is just around the corner. Saw a guy on a motorcycle Sunday afternoon. There is still 12-18 inches of snow on the ground but the roads were mostly dry.
Jeff
_________________
1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods |
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bmwmick
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 07 Jun 2003
Posts: 907
Location: Tucson, AZ
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| Posted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 2:42 pm Post subject: |
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I sent you an Email
_________________
Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ |
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old guy old bike
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 18 Jul 2007
Posts: 373
Location: Lisbon, OH
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| Posted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 8:08 pm Post subject: |
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Thought things were going along well until this afternoon. Put power to the bike today and discovered that the tranny shift indicator did not work. Well, It turns out I had plugged it into the lead that is supposed to go to the tank. Plugged it in as should be and now it says I am in 4th gear or 5th gear regardless of what gear it is in.
I don't know if I fried the switch or if it is just acting up from when I cleaned off the tranny. I did stick it in the parts washer tank (Stoddard solvent) and scrub it up good. Could it just have some solvent in the switch? Maybe a good flushing with WD-40.
Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated. I sure don't want to have to tear it all down to replace that switch.
Jeff
_________________
1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods |
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bmwmick
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 07 Jun 2003
Posts: 907
Location: Tucson, AZ
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| Posted: Sat Feb 27, 2010 10:20 pm Post subject: |
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Jeff,
If you had the kill switch ON, the sidestand up and the ignition ON,
you probably applied 12V to that gear indicator for 2 seconds at the most.
I'd try to cean it with tuner cleaner or something similar. Is your fuel pump
fuse still good?
Mick
_________________
Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ |
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2xcelr8
Big Brick Rider
Joined: 29 Sep 2009
Posts: 71
Location: SE Wisconsin
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| Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 12:04 am Post subject: Gear Indicator |
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Before I did my first spline lube this year I read a post cautioning about this exact thing. I believe there was an description of what damage is done. If I can find it I'll post a link but I don't recall if it was on this site or another.
_________________
Doug
'96 K1100RS, '94 K1100LT, '84 Honda VF700F Interceptor (4 sale) |
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA
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| Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 12:18 am Post subject: |
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a) Gear position switches DO NOT like to be submerged.
b) It's easy to test both the switch and the gear indicator in the cluster at the connector. Here's an IBMWR write-up that should help you:
http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/trans-switch.shtml
c) If you fried the instrument cluster circuitry then that can be purchased as a separate part and is not extremely difficult to install.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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old guy old bike
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 18 Jul 2007
Posts: 373
Location: Lisbon, OH
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| Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 1:49 pm Post subject: |
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Mick,
Fuse is still good. I think I will try the tuner cleaner route. Fingers are crossed.
Duck,
Thanks for the tech link. I think that the cluster should be good as nothing was plugged into it when I turned the ignition on. Was just going to bump over the motor to check the valve lash. Valve lash are all in spec BTW.
Doug,
Don't remember seeing that but they say memory is the second thing to go.
Looks like I have to pull the swingarm to get at that puppy. Is that the case?
Jeff
_________________
1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods |
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2xcelr8
Big Brick Rider
Joined: 29 Sep 2009
Posts: 71
Location: SE Wisconsin
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| Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 6:05 pm Post subject: Switch Verification |
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I scanned the article Duck refered to and I wouls start there. On the flip side, couldn't you use jumpers on the other side of the plug per the chart in the article the test the circuitry? The post, which I didn't find, refered to something in the circuitry as Duck refers to. I would try this before tearing the back end off the bike again. Good Luck
_________________
Doug
'96 K1100RS, '94 K1100LT, '84 Honda VF700F Interceptor (4 sale) |
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RobWheatley
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 06 Jun 2008
Posts: 261
Location: Chatham, Kent. UK
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| Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 8:31 pm Post subject: |
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| old guy old bike wrote: | Thought things were going along well until this afternoon. Put power to the bike today and discovered that the tranny shift indicator did not work. Well, It turns out I had plugged it into the lead that is supposed to go to the tank. Plugged it in as should be and now it says I am in 4th gear or 5th gear regardless of what gear it is in.
I don't know if I fried the switch or if it is just acting up from when I cleaned off the tranny. I did stick it in the parts washer tank (Stoddard solvent) and scrub it up good. Could it just have some solvent in the switch? Maybe a good flushing with WD-40.
Any thoughts or comments would be greatly appreciated. I sure don't want to have to tear it all down to replace that switch.
Jeff |
Hi Old Guy Old Bike.
I did the same as you with the two connectors for the gears and fuel tank, BAD news is you will have fried the switch, worse news is you have to pull the FD and swinging arm off to replace it, didnt even think that there would be two connectors the same when putting it all back, If your clutch switch works you will be able to start it, if not you will have to replace the switch before (or bypass the clutch switch) as the ECU will think the bike is in gear.
Good luck with the rest of the rebuild.
Rob
_________________
1999 K1100LTIC Smooth and Quiet Cruise, BFD & HID
1996 K1100RS. dead but not forgotten. |
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old guy old bike
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 18 Jul 2007
Posts: 373
Location: Lisbon, OH
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| Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 10:42 pm Post subject: |
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Rob,
That's what I am figuring. I am going to have a go with tuner cleaner if I can get the nozzle extension anywhere close. Picked up a can tonight. We will see.
Jeff
_________________
1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods |
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old guy old bike
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 18 Jul 2007
Posts: 373
Location: Lisbon, OH
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| Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 10:03 pm Post subject: |
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Sprayed the bugger real good with tuner cleaner and gave it a half hour to dry out. Still no change, only shows 4th or 5th gear. Always 5th when it is in any gear and always 4th when it is in one of the false neutrals. Using a meter on the plug shows me the same thing. I have got to believe that I have toasted it up.
Can the wire be snaked out from under the battery or does it all have to come off?
Jeff
_________________
1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods |
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Scott_Anderson
Site Admin
Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3122
Location: Central Iowa, USA
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| Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 11:10 pm Post subject: |
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| old guy old bike wrote: | ....does it all have to come off?
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Well, that depends on your definition of "all".
But the only way to get to the switch is to remove the swing arm.
I also thinkt the only way to snake the wire out is to remove the battery and tray.
_________________
Ride safe.
1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold) |
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RobWheatley
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 06 Jun 2008
Posts: 261
Location: Chatham, Kent. UK
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| Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 6:24 am Post subject: |
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| old guy old bike wrote: | Sprayed the bugger real good with tuner cleaner and gave it a half hour to dry out. Still no change, only shows 4th or 5th gear. Always 5th when it is in any gear and always 4th when it is in one of the false neutrals. Using a meter on the plug shows me the same thing. I have got to believe that I have toasted it up.
Can the wire be snaked out from under the battery or does it all have to come off?
Jeff |
If your careful you can remove the 4 10mm nuts holding the battery tray/ABS unit/Footpeg frame down and lift it just enough to get the plug through (this is what I did) tie a piece of wire/string onto the old one to draw the new one through but the FD and swinging arm does have to come out again.
It MIGHT be possible to mark and remove the contacts from the plug to make it easier but im not sure how that are held in to it.
When I changed mine I took the old switch apart and it had melted one of the contacts beyond repair.
Rob
_________________
1999 K1100LTIC Smooth and Quiet Cruise, BFD & HID
1996 K1100RS. dead but not forgotten. |
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA
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| Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 8:52 am Post subject: |
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How do you get the rubber grommet in place if you don't remove the battery tray?
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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RobWheatley
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 06 Jun 2008
Posts: 261
Location: Chatham, Kent. UK
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| Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 10:49 am Post subject: |
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| Flying Duck wrote: | | How do you get the rubber grommet in place if you don't remove the battery tray? |
You can do it from inside the trans housing using a long screwdriver to push it down from the top.
Rob
_________________
1999 K1100LTIC Smooth and Quiet Cruise, BFD & HID
1996 K1100RS. dead but not forgotten. |
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