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K1100LT Clutch Slave & Spline
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6899
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 11 Oct 2006
Posts: 103
Location: Indianapolis, IN

PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 9:16 pm    Post subject: K1100LT Clutch Slave & Spline Reply with quote

Gang,

I am in the middle of a tear down of my 1996 K1100LT - it has 73K. Bought it used at 61K.

4 Questions:
1) How do you know if the Slave is leaking without taking Tranny out?
2) My rear Brake Master was almost gone with Brake Fluid
3) What is the avg life of the K1100 Clutch. My seems to work OK
4) Is it necessary to remove the ABS?

I see a lot of threads for K75 but my K1100LT has more shit on it..

Martin
_________________
1996 K1100LT, 73K (bought at 61K on 2006)
1977 R100/7, bought new, rode 97K in 29 yrs before parting out
1970 R50/5, bought used, rode 40K & sold

BMWMOA #6899 since 1976
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Phil Marvin
Rider in the Sky


Joined: 03 Apr 2003
Posts: 1389
Location: El Paso, Texas, USA

PostPosted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 9:29 pm    Post subject: Re: K1100LT Clutch Slave & Spline Reply with quote

6899 wrote:
Gang,

I am in the middle of a tear down of my 1996 K1100LT - it has 73K. Bought it used at 61K.

4 Questions:
1) How do you know if the Slave is leaking without taking Tranny out?
2) My rear Brake Master was almost gone with Brake Fluid
3) What is the avg life of the K1100 Clutch. My seems to work OK
4) Is it necessary to remove the ABS?

I see a lot of threads for K75 but my K1100LT has more shit on it..


Hi, Martin,
I'll try to answer.
1. There is no slave cylinder. The clutch pull is via cable, not hydraulic. If there is a leak from the weep hole in the bell housing, it is either engine oil (rear main seal or, most likely, the "O" ring behind the clutch gland nut) or gearbox oil (gearbox input shaft seal).
2. I don't understand. If you mean your rear brake reservoir was low on fluid, you might have a leak or your rear brake pads might be nearly worn out and need to be replaced.
3. I don't know! I had a '96 K1100LT which I sold at 122k miles and which now has 150k miles, all with the same clutch.
4. Why?
I hope some of this helps. Someone else may have better answers.
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Phil Marvin in El Paso, TX
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2xcelr8
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 29 Sep 2009
Posts: 71
Location: SE Wisconsin

PostPosted: Wed Feb 03, 2010 12:13 am    Post subject: ABS II Reply with quote

If you are doing the splines or pulling the tranny, I found it easiest to disconnect the brake lines so it can be moved far enough to be out of the way. The wires can stay connected. I zip tied the unit to the top frame rails.

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'96 K1100RS, '94 K1100LT, '84 Honda VF700F Interceptor (4 sale)
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6899
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 11 Oct 2006
Posts: 103
Location: Indianapolis, IN

PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 5:33 pm    Post subject: K1100LT Clutch Slave & Spline Reply with quote

Thanks for the info.

I assumed the bike had a hydralic slave - and thought maybe the fluid came from the rear brake reservoir. DUH!

Initially I thought that if I had to dig too deep, may as well replace the clutch -- but I'll leave the bike alone. I do have a small 1-2 drops leak from under the engine / tranny weep hole. After I pull the tranny I'll have to make a judgement if any seals need replacing.

I like the idea of disconnecting the ABS and capping the brake lines - but do you have trouble bleeding the brake lines when you reconnect them? Seems everybody complains about the ABS and tries to move it around with the brake lines intact.

Martin
_________________
1996 K1100LT, 73K (bought at 61K on 2006)
1977 R100/7, bought new, rode 97K in 29 yrs before parting out
1970 R50/5, bought used, rode 40K & sold

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mtnroads
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 29 Mar 2005
Posts: 281
Location: West Linn, OR

PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 11:44 pm    Post subject: Re: K1100LT Clutch Slave & Spline Reply with quote

[quote="6899

I like the idea of disconnecting the ABS and capping the brake lines - but do you have trouble bleeding the brake lines when you reconnect them? Seems everybody complains about the ABS and tries to move it around with the brake lines intact.

Martin[/quote]

Personally I like ABS - it can be a lifesaver in the rainy weather we're experiencing here in the west. The 1996 K-LT has ABS II which is pretty responsive - not sure why you would disconnect it unless you're having issues with the servo or controller.
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Off the grid
Chaotic Good


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 12:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have to tear a bike apart 12k miles after buying it? Shocked
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SugarHillCTD
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 9:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Off the grid wrote:
You have to tear a bike apart 12k miles after buying it? Shocked


Dave,

It's a K bike- what else would you expect? Laughing

That's approx. how many miles I got before my O-ring disaster.
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6899
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 11 Oct 2006
Posts: 103
Location: Indianapolis, IN

PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 3:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys,

I read the msg to move the ABS out of the way (tie to frame) but to attach it to the frame wouldn't you have to temporarily remove the brake lines??

I plan to do some serious riding this year so since I bought the K from a 3rd owner, I have no idea what any maintenance was performed on it. I did see in the 1st owners manual all the maintenance checks up to about 25K, then nothing recorded from 25K to 61K. I bought the Hot Jalepeno at 61K and only did routine maintenance.

Thanks,

Back From Bagram, Afghanistan
_________________
1996 K1100LT, 73K (bought at 61K on 2006)
1977 R100/7, bought new, rode 97K in 29 yrs before parting out
1970 R50/5, bought used, rode 40K & sold

BMWMOA #6899 since 1976
Indy BMW Club since 1975
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you could do it by slightly bending the brake lines but of course there's a slight risk of breaking them involved but it's up to you.

My only experience is that I did it to a parts bike as I was taking it apart just to see if it's possible. I THINK it is.
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Tim (Midland Section)
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Joined: 08 Apr 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

6899 wrote:
Hey guys,
I read the msg to move the ABS out of the way (tie to frame) but to attach it to the frame wouldn't you have to temporarily remove the brake lines??
Thanks,
Back From Bagram, Afghanistan


I did just that, in fact 3 times now (can't remember why 3) once for the clutch.
I do remember it had to come out to remove the footrest mounts / battery tray, which fouled the alternator, starter & would have prevented the gearbox sliding rearward.
I eased the pipes out & plugged them (only one needed a little bending), the idea being to reduce the amount of air to bleed later. I also stuffed kitchen towel in the pipe holes just to keep the crud out. IIRC it was easier to also disconnect the FAT cables under the cover at the back of the ABS 2 unit.
HTH
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Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
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Ernie-NH
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

Good evening "6899:....

Say.... do you think you could shrink your avatar just a tad ? I cant get your messages on my screen !

If so..... THANKS !!

Best regards..............// Ernie-NH
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Jim
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 8:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ernie-NH wrote:
Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

Good evening "6899:....

Say.... do you think you could shrink your avatar just a tad ? I cant get your messages on my screen !

If so..... THANKS !!

Best regards..............// Ernie-NH


+1
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1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jim wrote:
Ernie-NH wrote:
Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy Very Happy

Good evening "6899:....

Say.... do you think you could shrink your avatar just a tad ? I cant get your messages on my screen !

If so..... THANKS !!

Best regards..............// Ernie-NH


+1


Better yet put it in the sig line instead of the avatar and it won't be a problem.
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1997 K1100LT 0302488
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1995 K1100LT 0302044(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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Tim (Midland Section)
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Joined: 08 Apr 2005
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Location: Pinxton, Nottingham, England.

PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

+2
Or perhaps use a K engine, it's narrower & a lot less agricultural Twisted Evil
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Grey haired riders don't get that way by pure luck
1996 Guzzi Cali3 LAPD
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2xcelr8
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 29 Sep 2009
Posts: 71
Location: SE Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 11:03 pm    Post subject: ABS II Wire Disconnect Reply with quote

Tim (Midland Section) wrote:
6899 wrote:
Hey guys,
I read the msg to move the ABS out of the way (tie to frame) but to attach it to the frame wouldn't you have to temporarily remove the brake lines??
Thanks,
Back From Bagram, Afghanistan


I did just that, in fact 3 times now (can't remember why 3) once for the clutch.
I do remember it had to come out to remove the footrest mounts / battery tray, which fouled the alternator, starter & would have prevented the gearbox sliding rearward.
I eased the pipes out & plugged them (only one needed a little bending), the idea being to reduce the amount of air to bleed later. I also stuffed kitchen towel in the pipe holes just to keep the crud out. IIRC it was easier to also disconnect the FAT cables under the cover at the back of the ABS 2 unit.
HTH


I couldn't figure out how to get the black cover off even after reading about it in one of these theads so I just zip tied it to the frame. Tomorrow I will bleed the brakes and see if I caused any problems.
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'96 K1100RS, '94 K1100LT, '84 Honda VF700F Interceptor (4 sale)
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
Posts: 3124
Location: Central Iowa, USA

PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 11:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doug, to get the cover off, ther is a small embossed spot about 1/2-3/4" inch down from the top in the middle that you have to punch out with a small nail.
Then once you have that open either use the nail or a small jeweler's tip screw driver. Insert the driver or nail straight in with a little tension then tilt upward as the cover slides up. There will be a little snap when it comes loose.
You can't get the cover off with out opening up that release or you will break the cover/latch and it won't fit back on.
When you go back together cover that small hole with some good tape or a dab of silicone to seal it back up.
_________________
Ride safe.



1997 K1100LT 0302488
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1995 K1100LT 0302044(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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kstones
Brick Rider


Joined: 11 Mar 2006
Posts: 38
Location: N Yorks, England.

PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 7:47 am    Post subject: ABS/Clutch etc Reply with quote

Well you learn something perhaps not every day; where were you last year when i had the ABS hung up on string doing obstetrics on the bike!! Had a quick run out this morning; the K11 is just adrenaline to me; i'm just blind to getting something else for fun riding. The K12 is better for passenger duty but only for the good weather ( it's all relative in the NE of England).
Keep it coming guys.
Tony.
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Scott_Anderson
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 8:54 am    Post subject: Re: ABS/Clutch etc Reply with quote

kstones wrote:
...where were you last year when i had the ABS hung up on string doing obstetrics on the bike!!


To tell you the truth I did the same as you 2 yrs ago when I did the clutch spline lube on the '97. It would have been a whole lot easier to have had it out of the way then.
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Ride safe.



1997 K1100LT 0302488
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1995 K1100LT 0302044(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)
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2xcelr8
Big Brick Rider


Joined: 29 Sep 2009
Posts: 71
Location: SE Wisconsin

PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scott_Anderson wrote:
Doug, to get the cover off, ther is a small embossed spot about 1/2-3/4" inch down from the top in the middle that you have to punch out with a small nail.
Then once you have that open either use the nail or a small jeweler's tip screw driver. Insert the driver or nail straight in with a little tension then tilt upward as the cover slides up. There will be a little snap when it comes loose.
You can't get the cover off with out opening up that release or you will break the cover/latch and it won't fit back on.
When you go back together cover that small hole with some good tape or a dab of silicone to seal it back up.


I tried to get the cover off per your instructions but was afraid I was going to break something so I left the wires. It's finally back together and the brakes are bled. I bled about 5 reservoirs full of fluid out the back and about the same out the front, 2 or 3 from each side. Snow last week so I am waiting for my driveway to finish thawing before I take it out. The brakes feel fine on the stand but the proof is in the ride.
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'96 K1100RS, '94 K1100LT, '84 Honda VF700F Interceptor (4 sale)
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6899
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 11 Oct 2006
Posts: 103
Location: Indianapolis, IN

PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gang,

The tranny came out today with my son and friend helping. I found that the tranny spline was well lubricated but a lot of oil in the bottom if the bell housing so I definitely have to replace the clutch O ring and may as well do the engine rear seal. Sad

Tomorrow its the clutch and then tally up all parts to order. Wink

What a pain to get this far but I do feel better having navigated it. Evil or Very Mad The driveshafts were also lubed and I noticed that the original grease was yellow / red and the new grease was grey. Razz I had trouble getting the starter out so I just unbolted it and the tranny came out anyway. I took a lot of pics and will post once I'm done. Had some surprizes along the way like the right hand top frame bolt to the tranny was finger tight! WTF!!! Rolling Eyes Confused Overall the bike was in good condtion for 73K but needs some new rubber seals. Wink

Martin
_________________
1996 K1100LT, 73K (bought at 61K on 2006)
1977 R100/7, bought new, rode 97K in 29 yrs before parting out
1970 R50/5, bought used, rode 40K & sold

BMWMOA #6899 since 1976
Indy BMW Club since 1975
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