K11 Owners Group

oilhead110 · Joined: 12 Sep 2008 Posts: 18 Location: Iowa

Does anyone have the P/N for the BMW rear main seal driver tool for the 16 valve K engines?

Thanks

Don Sproule · Posted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 3:40 pm Post subject:

I just used a piece of 2 x 4 and a hammer. Worked great.
I think a proper sized socket would do the job too.

Don

RobWheatley · Posted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 7:26 pm Post subject:

Old seal back to front and a large socket, the old seal protects the new one.

Rob
_________________
1999 K1100LTIC Smooth and Quiet Smile

Cruise, BFD & HID
1996 K1100RS. dead but not forgotten.

Technician · Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 12:58 pm Post subject:

I knocked mine in with a piece of 2x1 soft wood, worked ok just be careful not to knock the output shaft as it won't tolerate any sideways movement.
_________________
Fat Ba***d with a K1100LTse
Squire D18 trailer
Garmin Zumo 660
"Run it round the block to see if the wheels fall off!!!!"

SugarHillCTD · Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 6:12 pm Post subject:

Oilhead,

If you have not installed the seal yet, are you aware that the seals that BMW now sells are not meant to be driven in flush with the face of the engine case?

According to THE parts guy at Max (Rusty) the new style seals are driven in but stop short of making it completely even with the cases. Now someone will ask just how much but I cannot recall what I was told- it was 3 months ago. Anyone have some input here?

BTW, the wood block technique works just fine. Just gently work your way around the perimeter.

Also the flexible portion of the seal should not be lubricated- it is designed to "burnish in" with friction from the rotating shaft.
_________________
John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.

heatmizr · Joined: 25 Jan 2010 Posts: 16 Location: Charlotte NC

Hi all,
New here. I have my friend's 1996 model K1100rs that I am trying to do some maintenance on. The shop gave her a list of items needed, and the rear seal was on the list. However, it is not obviously leaking.

My question is, is it worth replacing it preventatively, or should I leave it alone if its not leaking?

I believe the mileage on the bike is not much, in the 10k-20k range. I have a feeling the shop was trying to give her as much service as possible, needed or not.

Thanks much, and look for my other posts soon on the other items!
(perhaps I just need to post everything in one thread and get all the advice at once...)

-Todd
_________________
Todd Glasier in Charlotte, NC
1996 k1100rs (on loan)
2002 RC1
2000 VFR

Saltcreek · Posted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 5:30 pm Post subject:

Welcome Todd,

Post an intro over on the campfire and tell us about yourself. Pictures will be demanded.
_________________
Jim

1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold Sad

2009 Wilderness Systems Zephyr 155 ST
2002 Litespeed titanium

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 6:49 pm Post subject:

old guy old bike · Posted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 10:48 pm Post subject:

I did not intend to change mine as it was not leaking until I got a good look at it. It was worn pretty good and after 17 years it probably deserved to be replaced anyway.

As a side note a friend of mine works at a Chevy garage and he borrowed a seal install tool for me. Seems something on a Chevy has the same size seal. He just took my old seal to work with him and tried it on the box of drivers the mechanics use.

Now if my parts would ever arrive!!!!
_________________
1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods

bmwmick · Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 3:16 pm Post subject:

Old guy,
Just seat the new seal 0.020" shy of flush. That is what the new tool does.
http://ibmwr.org/ktech/mainseal1.gif Same as Scott said above, just in English Smile

Mick
_________________
Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ

old guy old bike · Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 10:11 pm Post subject:

Mick
One better than that, I just chucked the Generous Motors seal tool up in the lathe and cut a recess so that the seal would be 0.5mm proud when the tool bottoms out. I can always face the step off the tool before I return it. Heck, it will be better than when borrowed as it is now flat and square to the pilot.
Jeff
_________________
1993 K1100LT
2003 K1200GT Gone but not forgotten
2014 Victory Crossraods

bmwmick · Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 10:24 pm Post subject:

Very cool! I used feeler gauges. Smile

Mick
_________________
Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 12:08 am Post subject:

oilhead110 · Joined: 12 Sep 2008 Posts: 18 Location: Iowa

Is this the tool? It's marked 111 630 with a Mfg date of 07/08. It has a removeable center.

Scott_Anderson · Posted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 8:53 pm Post subject:

It looks like that center insert should slip onto the output shaft and the outside diameter should match the outer diameter of the seal.

With the center inserted into the tool, how much does it set down inside the outer section? According to the specs it should be .5mm +/- .1mm

The diagram in the SB didn't show a removeable center piece, but that doesn't mean that they didn't change it again.

Looking at your pics, looks like that one was dropped on the edge at some point and time.
_________________
Ride safe.

1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

oilhead110 · Joined: 12 Sep 2008 Posts: 18 Location: Iowa