K11 Owners Group

[don good]

OK, im in the ballpark, somewhere between $4700 and $5000 is where the seller is at. He wants to keep stuff for the lower prices. Probably best to pay the $5 and sell what i dont want myself.

[don good]

The problem in my head is that there are numerous newer bmw's such as r1150r, rts, s's, in the same dollar range, even an occasional k1200rs, all with reasonable miles. Those rides are generally between 98 and 04 and all seem right. Why is it not better to go for the newest avail at the better price?????I know, its all what I want, but what do I want.

[mtnroads]

Not having seen a pic, but based on description, and with bags, etc, probably $6000 for that bike. As Drake said - it will be worth more in the spring. Keep in mind there is a limited audience for a K-bike that is now 3 generations old, regardless of miles. I see 04 K-GT's and 04 twin-spark oilheads (R1150RT) in the $8-9000 range now and they are almost 10 years newer than the bike you're looking at, with better handling and more modern style. That said, some of us prefer the traditional flying brick and it's getting harder to find them with low miles. I just scored a very clean (but not mint) 95 K-LT in Graphit with 21K miles for $5250 and consider myself very fortunate. I plan to keep it forever.
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2012 R1200RT Midnight Blue
95 K1100LT Graphit (sold)
01 R1100RT Black (sold)

[mtnroads]

With regard to your second question about similarly-priced but newer bikes such as those you and I both mentioned - KRS's, KGT's, R1150's. I don't find the later K1200 bricks to be as versatile - the GT and RS gained a lot of weight and still have the leaned over riding position which I find painful on long days, and the LT became a whale. They all have heavy-steering. The R1150RT, of which I have owned two, are serious competition to the K-LT and offer some advantages: they handle excellent, look stunning, and have a very comfortable seating position for long days in the saddle. Drawbacks are a bit higher price, the clunky-shifting around town, lack of power at slower speeds and frequent maintenance requirements. I have actually had the valves loosen up to a clatter within one lap of the western states (5000 mi). Not to mention that incredibly annoying surging on the pre-2004 (twin-spark). And clutch and final drive failures. In my opinion you can't beat a K1100LT for all around performance, comfort, dependability and lack of maintenance needs - just get on, ride and enjoy every day with very little fuss.
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2012 R1200RT Midnight Blue
95 K1100LT Graphit (sold)
01 R1100RT Black (sold)

[Scott_Anderson]

I got my '97LT back in early 2005. Like Phil says it was one of the base models of the line. No Radio, no heated grips, broken top case lid hinge.
Likewise it had only about 7K miles on it at the time.

I wish I had known of this site before I bought it or I probably wouldn't have paid as much as I did(almost 6K), or maybe I wouldn't have it either.

It's got close to 40K on it now and I have had some issues with it.

Most of them I have been able to address lately myself without a dealer mechanic.

The biggest "bend me over" was in '08 when I had to have a couple of valves replaced, and a water/oil pump rebuild.

Since then I have done all my own work on both bikes.
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Ride safe.



1995 K1100LT 0302044
2017 FLHTK Ultra Limited
Garmin StreetPilot 2820
Garmin Zumo 550
Garmin Zumo XT
"One who does not ask questions is ashamed to learn" Danish proverb
1997 K1100LT 0302488(R.I.P.)
1997 R1100RT ZC62149(sold)

[don good]

I have experience with the frailities of the k11, especially the oil/waterpump leaks, the front master cylinder leaks, pulling cams to adj valves, etc. I had a very similiar same color 96 k11lt and traded it in 03 for a whale, big mistake. This one has caught my eye and Im just a little apprehensive about the things going wrong caused by such low mileage, re dry hoses and seals, etc.

[Off the grid]

[ljjohns]

Earlier today, Ted offered up his systematic approach to the process of buying a bike on the BMWMOA website: it's relevant to this discussion:

http://www.verrill.com/moto/kbikebuyingguide.shtml

Larry Johnson
1996 K11LT (sold too soon)
2003 K12LTC
1991 K75RT
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1993 K1100LT (Washington)
1995 K1100LTSE
1996 K1100LTSE (parts)
2003 K1200LTC
1991 K75RT

[Flying Duck]

[don good]

I know about the pushrod seal leak as most of the k's leaked into the rubber boot and unless it was a serious leak, not aware until removing boot for whatever. Im not comfortable that BMW has good tight engineering anymore, ask those thousands who have had final drive failures, slave cyl. leaks, rear main seal leaks, and ruined clutches because of it. The breather hose is cheap and easy to change, but unless its deteriated because of fumes as is the case with most, its probably no worse than any of the rubber stuff.

[Flying Duck]

The rubber boot on the back of the tranny is supposed to have gear oil in there. It helps lubriate the crap at the rear end of the pushrod. So I wouldn't refer to that as "leaking." The purpose of the little seal at the rear of the pushrod is to keep that gear oil from creeping up the pushrod.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

[don good]

Im thinking, out loud here, If the oil is supposed to be in the boot, how do you suppose it gets there. I have not read nor seen anyway to fill the boot unless the oil comes out of the rear tranny seal and the little ring/seal on the pushrod front is to keep oil from the clutch. There is nothing at the rear of the pushrod that needs oiled, it only makes a mess under there. Ive done a few of these a good while back and could be a little sketchy about what is there. At any rate, im still looking for pricing info and trying to justify a 8hr plus ride to see this bike..

[Flying Duck]