K11 Owners Group

[RobWheatley]

Hi All
Got round to starting the work on my LT today and found something really weird plus a few "problems"

Weird thing is I have RS wheels on her, correct profile tyres (BT20's) but it seems that the tyre has been rubbing the swinging arm to the point of wearing some of the arm away, the spacer for the wheel was in there but I cant understand why it would do this, I have had no noise from the tyre, no marks on the tyre (looks to have worn evenly with no burn or rub marks) and it has not been hard to push at all. When I fitted the RS wheels I did turn it when the wheel nuts were tight to see if there was any rubbing and it was fine, go figure.

Problems are
1. Drive shaft is knackered, both UJ's are stiff with flat spots in both planes of movement, I hope the replacement unit is ok (yet to strip it down that far as the FD/arm/box is still together)

2. Gear oil in the swinging arm at the FD, not much but enough to run out and make a pool on the floor, its not come from the box so must have leaked out of the FD.

3. Play in the input shaft for the FD, if I wiggle the input shaft it will move side to side by about 0.5 of a millimeter, again I am replacing the FD but should there be any movement in the shaft at all?

4. Alternator rubbers seem to have had flat spots worn on the front of them, not in between where they engage with the drive but on the outside where they touch the alternator drive plate.

5. Play in the engine output shaft for deffo, I can rotate the flywheel but about 8-10 mm with out the crankshaft moving, I am hoping that this is the source of the noise I am getting so now have to strip the complete bottom end off the replace it, I was hoping that it might have been the clutch assembly but this seems to be fairly new, friction plate is about worn out though with about 1.5 mm to the rivets.

I have been trying to work out the gear ratio's for the box and the FD, the box seems to be
1st = 4.5:1
2nd = 2.96:1
3rd = 2.33:1
4th = 1.91:1
5th = 1.375:1
it seems pretty standard to 3rd but way out for 4th and 5th, I will check again but looking at the figures the revs should be LOWER than my RS in 5th at 100mph but they are higher! Could be the FD ratio as it may have been altered for the police (a mate is an ex MC cop and said that some were played with if they were for escort duty)
when I pull the other box/FD apart I will compare them.

Well thats all for now
Rob

Oh nearly forgot, looked at the back tyre and found a screw in it, left it in there for now, will see if it goes down when I take it out tomorrow, I can see a repair coming on if it does, its only done about 1000 miles from new.
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1999 K1100LTIC Smooth and Quiet Cruise, BFD & HID
1996 K1100RS. dead but not forgotten.

[RJTrucker]

The tire might be clearing the drive shaft but in a curve the side wall gives some and that might be when the rubing happens. It would explain why there is no burning and why it is easy to push. Just my opinion.
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Ron
1993 K11LT
1985 K100RS with over 100K on it
1985 K100RS Luftmiester Turbo Work in progress (any help is appreciated)
1974 R90/6

[SugarHillCTD]

The alt drive "monkey nutz" were flat on the front of mine also. I think that is just from being compressed by the alt mounting bolts.
I think that the tire rub could happen on acceleration. With a ss swingarm any play or flex would have the already small clearance close up or disappear.
Good luck with your tear down.
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John & Cathy

'92 K100RS4V Pearl White SOLD
'04 K1200GT
IBA Several-SS1k, BBG, 50CC NYC to S.F.

[Phil Marvin]

Hi, All,
I just removed the alternator off the '95 K75RT to replace the "monkey nutz". I can't tell you if they were flat on the front or not. When I removed the alternator, a couple of small rubber balls fell out along with a couple of handsful of rubber flakes and dust. Mixed in was a little aluminum, the remains of the vanes in the drive cup. So the alternator is now sitting on the bench, waiting until next Friday when the cup, ordered from Max, is supposed to arrive. Max was the fifth (and farthest) dealer I called, and the only one who had the part in stock and could (according to UPS) get it to me before the Labor Day weekend.
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Ride Safe,
Phil Marvin in El Paso, TX
'94 K75A/3
'95 K75RTP

[RobWheatley]

Just a quick update.

Took off the bell housing, oil/water pump, and sump housing to get at the output shaft today (the engine is still in the frame as Im too lasy to take it out)
I found that the split gear on the output shaft was virtually inline with the main gear giving no anti backlash at all, compared it with the one from the donor engine and there is quite a difference.

I have ordered all the seals I need plus a new oil sight glass as the old one was very dirty plus new rubbers for the output damper and new rubbers for the alternator.

Got the donor FD, Arm & box split and the drive shaft is good BUT it is the old type with 20 splines instead of 16, I know it will fit my box and FD and cant really see any reason not to use it but why did BMW change it? were there problems with the 20 spline ones? is there a reason not to use it?

I am going to use the cast alloy torque arm from the donor as it look 10000% better that the pressed tin can on the later ones, cleaned a bit of dirt off and there was a nice coat of paint underneath...... result.

I have looked at my original FD and think I will refit it, the movement in the shaft is so slight, if it does fail I have a replacment anyway. That now has a new coat of paint as does the swinging arm. BFD ALERT!!!!!!! the gearing seems to be the same as the donor one at 11/31 as stamped on the FD, I thought it should be 11/32 but that would be the wrong way for the way my bike is (higher ratio so higher RPM/speed)

I have cleaned and painted the main sump housing, oil/water pump and a few other bits as they all looked a bit tired and flakey.

The wiring for the oil pressure switch and the temp sender has also been replaced as it was all hard and broken (temp guage didnt work)

When i took the clutch apart on the donor engine the friction plate looked new, going to use that and see how it goes, It only took me about 2 hours to strip down to the clutch so will put a new one in later if it needs it.

Going to finally get round to fitting the cruise control as well now as I have time waiting for the parts to arrive.

Thats all for now, will keep you all posted.
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1999 K1100LTIC Smooth and Quiet Cruise, BFD & HID
1996 K1100RS. dead but not forgotten.

[hfxrzw]

Hi, just a quick one - the newer ones have 20 splines. Old drive shafts have 16 splines. I'm unaware of drive shafts with different splines on each end, so your choice of gearbox output shaft spline numbers will dictate the FD input spline numbers.
Good luck with the job!

Cheers, Rene.

[RobWheatley]

Hi
Its the joint between the two parts of the drive shaft that is different, both ends where they go on the FD and Box are the same and fit bot boxes and FD's. I remember seeing somewhere that it was changed but can't remember where or why though.

Rob
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1999 K1100LTIC Smooth and Quiet Cruise, BFD & HID
1996 K1100RS. dead but not forgotten.

[Beachcomber]

As all frames are virtually identical in their measurements - there is NO difference from fitting one wheel to another. The fit is accomplished by the offset in the wheel rim. Take a look at an RS and LT wheel from the bevel side and you will see a noticeable difference in offset.

This continues right throughout the Kay range - one reason why I now have a 4.5" k1100RS rear wheel in my 1987 K100 Race Rep.

And YES that does mean that some Kays have a different tracking front and rear and NO it makes not the slightest difference in the real World.
TJ
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Beachcomber '93 K1100RS / '93 K1100LT and several K100's

[Saltcreek]

It may not make a difference performance wise but it looks as stupid as hell when the wheel is off center. Just my opinion.
_________________
Jim

1994 K1100LT Mystic Red, bfd, 37000 miles, sold
2009 Wilderness Systems Zephyr 155 ST
2002 Litespeed titanium

[RobWheatley]

Hi all
Update for you.....
Got all the parts at 12.30 today and she was running at 7.00......... SUCCESS she sound like new, no rattles, knocks, bangs or rumbles just the gentle tick tick tick of the injectors

To cure the Knock I fitted the new damper rubbers to the replacement output shaft, on the original output shaft the split gear was very easy to move, on the one from the donor engine it would only move about half a mm if I forced it with a screwdriver, the problem was the antibacklash circlip, they are available to buy but that would have ment removing the main bearing from the shaft which is pressed on so I just replaced the shaft.
It was alot of work to do BUT worth every second of it.
I also fitted new monkey nuts to the alternator, the old ones had worn away by 8-10mm on the engine side of them, not sure if that was making a noise but did them anyway.

The only pain is I have blown the gear indicator switch , when putting her back together I connected the switch to the fuel pump/tank connector without thinking and didn't notice , I wasnt going to plug the pump in until I had turned the engine over on the starter to prime the oil system but just switching on the ignition was enough, luckily there was a spare on the other box so I have just plugged that one in to get her running, would have thought that BMW would have made the connectors keyed so it wouldnt fit but NO, same plug & socket.

Had enough for today so will remove the FD & arm tomorrow and replace the switch and then put the fairing back on.

Had a look when I refitted the wheel and its not the tyre rubbing on the swinging arm Doh its the plastic extention on the mudguard, the wheel is miles away from it

Will update tomorrow when I have replaced the gear switch and taken her out for a ride.

Rob
_________________
1999 K1100LTIC Smooth and Quiet Cruise, BFD & HID
1996 K1100RS. dead but not forgotten.

[RobWheatley]

Hi All
Well she is all back together now, FD and swinging arm off again and did the gear selector switch today so now have neutral light and gear indicator, then finished putting the fairing back on, oh its o nice to hit tart an not hear knock knock knock, given her a wash to get all my greasy finger prints off and the re-painted BFD and arm look good, they were already black but had some flaked paint also the alloy torque arm is so much better than the tin one.

I also changed the gearbox and FD oil, now running semi synthetic as couldnt get full synthetic locally, the old oil was very clean with only a few little bits on the drain plug, I was supprised at that concidering she has 105000 miles on the clock.

Did about 20 miles for a test run, no leaks or noises so will let her sit over night and look again in the morning.

Now Im a happy brick rider again.

Rob
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1999 K1100LTIC Smooth and Quiet Cruise, BFD & HID
1996 K1100RS. dead but not forgotten.

[supercat1]

is there a specific type of paint to use on those parts of the bike? mine could use a little touch up in some spots.
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(formerly) 1993 k1100rs