K11 Owners Group

Glawseagle

Okay, I’ll probably get told this topic has been posted elsewhere, but I’m really having trouble with my clutch cable … or to be precise cables. I hope you lot can help?

I own a 1998 K1100 LT, 60000 miles with full service history …. A lovely bike ….it has been looked after. Chassis number WB1052601W0237669.

We, (well the mechanic … www.delsmotorcyclesandtyres.co.uk), fitted a new one around 3 weeks ago, (part no. 35260), and, after he had run the cable along the same route as the old one, it seemed extremely stiff and difficult to pull back … like the cable wasn’t long enough. And this was in the most effective position.

BTW .... What does the suffix “F” mean after a part? Are there are two cables for the K1100LT

Moving on …. Today the new one broke ….. 23 days after being fitted to my bike. So, obviously, something isn’t right.

I rang the outlet, (Motobins in the UK), from where I purchased the cable. Their response was pretty unhelpful to be honest, saying “we never have any problems with clutch cables”.

But, he did say that it could be the lever attached to the gearbox that is playing up. Story goes, the lever either seize up or begin to operate at an angle. Both these put extra strain on the cable …….. consequently, the cables last 2 minutes.

He says that he sells reconditioned levers that have bearings and a grease nipple added. These levers solve the problem.

Can anybody give me any advice on solving this problem? Was I unlucky with this cable? Is there a longer cable available? Or is it there something in his view that the lever seizes up?

Thanks in advance for any advice?
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"Lovely stuff" ...Not my words Michael... the words of Shakin' Stevens.

Shoganai · Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 5:50 am Post subject:

I wish I could be of some real help.

If I read this right, the place that put the cable in did not offer to replace it as a matter warrenty (SP) work?

Did you ask them about it?
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Glawseagle · Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 7:12 am Post subject:

owrstrich · Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 11:50 am Post subject:

hello glawseagle... welcome...

nipple breakage aint good... i suggest a nipple shield...

j o
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Flying Duck · Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 12:11 pm Post subject:

It's probably a god idea to grease the rod the clutch arm pivots on too. I don't know offhand if this is possible to do without removing the swing arm though - which is a lot of work.

When you get the next one installed I'd recommend not riding the bike until you have this issue resolved and have a freely moving cable.
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86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
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Technician · Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 3:50 pm Post subject:

First off the "F" indication means it's a Featherlight cable as made by Venhill Engineering which utalises a PTFE coated inner cable resukting in a lighter smoother operation.
You need to grease the arm at the gearbox and apply a small amount of grease on the cable nipple adapter where it sits in the lever at the handlebars, be careful to avoid getting any on the cable itself if it is an "F" catagory cable as this could cause the cable to swell up.
The cable runs from the handlebars across to the righthand of the headstock and then under the tank back to the left side of the bike and down to the gearbox casing.
I also seem to go through clutch cables but mine last between 8000-15000 miles. I expect this has probably gone over a lot of "teaching Granny to suck eggs" ground but the other thing is to make sure your mechanic is routing the cable properly as it doesn't sound as though he is a BMW guy.
I don't want or mean to offend so if i have i'm sorry but if you want more info then ask if i have the answers i'll give them.
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Glawseagle · Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 2:08 am Post subject:

bmwmick · Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 6:31 pm Post subject:

I've replaced one cable in 145,000miles. Your breakage IS unusual. Ensure that the felt bushing #9 here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0536&mospid=47926&btnr=32_0765&hg=32&fg=20
isn't missing. If it is missing, it can let the barrel drop and cut the cable. Also ensure that there is grease at the lever where the barrel pivots. If it doesn't pivot easily, it breaks the cable right there at the barrel/nipple.
You can disconnect the cable at the transmission and feel the movement of the pivot lever down there. If it is binding, it will usually break the cable at that end.

Mick
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Mick McKinnon
KOG#175
'93 K1100LT, '96 R1100RT, '84 R100RS, 2010 Kawasaki C-14
Tucson, AZ

BMGraeme · Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 8:02 pm Post subject:

I had exactly the same problem and I got mine from Motorworks. Went through the saga of checking the cable, and yes it was supposed to be genuine BMW. My old one had not broken I just thought I would replace just in case, so I ended up putting the old one back on. I now have the new one cable tied to the old one in the same position etc just in case. Because I have both cables routed the same way, I can be sure the stiffness is nothing to do with the pivot lever it can only be the cable which is stiff. I never got to the bottom of the problem I just gave up and used the old one which once I had lubricated it is now working really well.
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1980 CB900FA
1994 K1100RS
2008 R1200GSA

John Clauss · Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 11:30 am Post subject:

I have the original cable on the bike with about 91K on it. Something is wrong to be having these issues.
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jaaars · Joined: 28 Jun 2005 Posts: 19 Location: Ashland Oregon

Try checking the clutch lever for a straight true pull. Any angle other than a 180 plane will fray and break cables, also check that the pivot bolt is operating freely, if it is too tight it will be HARD to pull. Ride safe, Jeff
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