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Jim
Site Admin
Joined: 17 May 2003
Posts: 3841
Location: WHERETHEFUNNEVERENDS
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 Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 11:10 am Post subject: fork springs |
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Gwen - just had my springs replaced - it can be a bit tricky. My search for springs led me to Jim Lindemann in Campbell, California. He apparently mostly does racing suspension, but I figured what the hell, suspension is suspension (sort of). After giving the K some thought, he figured out it wants linear, not progressive springs.
The springs he shipped are 1mm smaller in diameter than the stock springs. The springs fit over a flange - had to take the parts with the flange to a machine shop to get them turned.
Some of the guys here have ground out the springs to give them a larger inner diameter. Lindemann strongly advised against taking that route as that weakens the springs. Others have dropped their springs in from the top, not being able to see that their new springs may or may not fit over the flange.
If you are just draining the oil, you need to go with the 350 and 400cc amounts - there is oil that stays in there somewhere. If you are pulling everything apart and cleaning it all out - go with the 400 and 400. I just saw that post about which leg get the 350cc and which gets the 400cc - but damned if I can find it again.
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000
"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed." |
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Jim
Site Admin
Joined: 17 May 2003
Posts: 3841
Location: WHERETHEFUNNEVERENDS
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| Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 12:00 pm Post subject: fork oil |
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| Shoganai wrote: | Quick question...
Under fork oil replacement here:
http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech/fork-oil.shtml
If I'm going to drain all the oil, and replace the springs, which volume do I use for the left leg 350cc or 400cc? |
350 LEFT, 400 RIGHT
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000
"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed." |
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Geoff
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 08 Feb 2007
Posts: 551
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 2:10 pm Post subject: |
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| rydor wrote: | When I get my bike back  I'm fitting a set of these fork guards, I'll let you all know how well they work. They should do an adequate job of keeping seal-destroying stuff off, while not looking as butt-ugly as the Ranchos.
Traxxion Dynamics:
http://www.traxxion.com/store/detail.asp?product_id=FGK1 |
Please post a photo of the fork guards on your bike, if you can.
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2000 R1100RT
2008 H-D Electra Glide Ultra Classic |
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Roy S.
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 05 Mar 2008
Posts: 1349
Location: W. Sacramento, California
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| Posted: Sat May 10, 2008 7:54 pm Post subject: |
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| mnb wrote: | | BobZ(IL) wrote: | | I used 1000 grit paper working around the tubes to create a bit of 'tooth' to the surface. Put in new seals, clean frequently with WD-40, haven't had seals leaks since. Kinda like the shiney look as opposed to gaitors. |
They will. Rocks and bug guts do their damage. Without some form of partial or full shield (gaitors would be a full shield) the forks will require maintenance and new seals periodically. I've had to have it done twice in one year before. |
Newbie question/.02 worth, I hear thru what I feel are reliable sources (old school farmers and heavy equipment operators), that WD-40 will eat the seals if you clean the hydraulic ram, as with rams for tractors and their implement rams with WD-40? Would this not be the same?
Thanks in advance
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1993 K1100LT/On going project
1990 K75rt
1991 K75s
LURKER at LARGE |
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BobZ(IL)
Rider in the Sky
Joined: 20 May 2007
Posts: 651
Location: Bourbonnais, IL
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| Posted: Sat May 10, 2008 8:44 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | Newbie question/.02 worth, I hear thru what I feel are reliable sources (old school farmers and heavy equipment operators), that WD-40 will eat the seals if you clean the hydraulic ram, as with rams for tractors and their implement rams with WD-40? Would this not be the same? |
They could be right but I haven't had a problem in approx 5 years of ownership.
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'93 K1100LT
'78 R100S
'05 R1200GS
BMWMOA, CRBMWOA, ABC, K11OG #997
Live well, do good work, enjoy the ride. |
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rydor
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 16 Nov 2006
Posts: 1304
Location: Southern Illinois, U.S.A.
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mike toon
Mad Brick Rider
Joined: 16 May 2008
Posts: 117
Location: Beautiful Downtown Burbank CA
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| Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 11:50 am Post subject: |
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SOS/Brillo pads will clean and polish. (It's steel wool with soap)
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Current Bikes
1993 K1100LT
1976 GL1000 Naked
1981 GL1100 Naked
2000 DR650 Dual Sport |
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Jade
Flying Brick Rider
Joined: 03 Apr 2003
Posts: 163
Location: Colorado Rockies
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| Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 2:38 pm Post subject: |
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I used to use #0000 steel wool. It's fine enough to polish chrome and my Staintune. After having Race Tech springs and new seals installed and before re-installing the forks on the bike, I purchased some of these neoprene gaiters that I've seen on dirtbikes. I had to shorten them slightly and put a zip tie on the lower end, but I've never had to touch them again and it's been like 4 years and 30k miles. I think the gaiters were maybe $20. ....And they don't block any airflow to the radiator.
They're like Sealsavers.
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Jade
1/93 K1100RS
Tesla > Edison |
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl
Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA
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| Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 3:03 pm Post subject: |
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Shog - there's whole thread on pitted forks over at ADV in The Garage
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE |
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Shoganai
Biscuit Fluffer
Joined: 27 Apr 2005
Posts: 2234
Location: Culpeper,VA
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| Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 12:35 am Post subject: |
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Thanks everybody for your advice and suggestions. 
Duck, I'll go check it out. 
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1993 K1100RS aka The Shop Whore
1994 K1100RS aka Blue Streak
The long road is a rainbow and the pot of gold lies there.
So slip the chain and I'm off again,
You'll find me everywhere. I'm a Rover. - JT
Nana korobi ya oki |
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