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Question for metalheads
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 9:33 am    Post subject: Question for metalheads Reply with quote

The bolts that hold the front brake rotor carriers seem to be a somewhat soft metal. (At least it seems that way given how easy it is to strip the heads on them. Rolling Eyes )

So I'm considering replacing those with stainless steel.

Two questions:

1) Will stainless be stronger than stock?

2) Are there corrosion issues using stainless bolts with a) the alloy of the wheels or b) the steel of the carrier?
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86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
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abreeze
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Joined: 17 Jun 2006
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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 10:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i use SS on the calipers and some rotors on other bikes....

You must use type A4/316 SS. This is equivlent to the stock 8.8 Steel.

I have seen less corrosion with SS than Steel.
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chopper_harris
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Joined: 28 Dec 2007
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Location: Nr Wigan, UK

PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With a small wipe of Coppaslip (A copper rich grease) on the shank and under the head, you will have no further corrosion worries.
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

abreeze wrote:
i use SS on the calipers and some rotors on other bikes....

You must use type A4/316 SS. This is equivlent to the stock 8.8 Steel.

I have seen less corrosion with SS than Steel.


Thanks, just the info I needed.

ETK says M8x25. Would you happen to know what the right thread pitch for those bolts is? 1? 1.25?
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And where can I find them in the US on the Internet? My Google-fu is not strong today. Sad
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 12:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found some titanium M8x25 button heads - only $7.50 each. Shocked
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Jim
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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You figure out what the pitch is yet?
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1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not yet.

I did find a site that specializes in motorcycle titanium hardware that says there's only one pitch used for M8 bolts. They have the M8x25 button heads for $5.67 each. I'm considering titanium now. Titanium is COOL.

More info:

http://www.corsemeccanica.com/titanium_fasteners.htm
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Jim
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Joined: 17 May 2003
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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 1:49 pm    Post subject: titanium/ss Reply with quote

Chris at Desmoparts has 8X25 SS at .35 each They're A2-70 Grade (I don't know what that means). But you're right - titanium is cool. How many bolts are needed (bike in shop - can't look)?
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."


Last edited by Jim on Sun May 04, 2008 1:59 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Flying Duck
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Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Six per side - 12 per front wheel. I'll probably do both bikes so I need 24.

I found some titanium ones on Fleabay for $4.50 each. I messaged the seller and asked him how much he'd want for a lot of 24. We'll see how that turns out.

I also found a shop up in Toronto that has them for $4/each w/ $5 shipping.

I could do both bikes for $100. A bit spendy but very high on the coolness factor.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Jim
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Joined: 17 May 2003
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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, Drake - keep us posted, please.
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."
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Technician
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 13 Aug 2007
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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Standard metric thread for M8 is 1.25 pitch
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chopper_harris
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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beemers since 1970 have used metric standard (coarse) threads.

Many rice-burners (Suzuki for sure, DAHIK Crying or Very sad ) use metric fine.

This is a PITA, as stainless metric fine bolts and set-screws are not readily available in the larger sizes (m8-m12) in the UK, and are to special order.
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Carl
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Joined: 04 Apr 2003
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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 10:37 pm    Post subject: Bolts Reply with quote

FD, you might try this guy.
www.theboltguy.com
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Jim
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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2008 11:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Bolts Reply with quote

Carl wrote:
FD, you might try this guy.
www.theboltguy.com


theboltguy sells kits for R bikes - as if that's all BMW ever made...
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."
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mnb
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Joined: 20 Jun 2007
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PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2008 12:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just make sure you get one that goes to 11...

Oh wait... wrong kind of metalhead.

Nevermind!
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bmwmick
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PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2008 8:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had good luck with Barnhill Bolt
http://www.barnhillbolt.com/index.php?level=product&catid=-1&root=selection&group=&menu=1950&custid=831248152

Mick
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abreeze
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PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2008 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Desmoparts has 8X25 SS at .35 each They're A2-70 Grade (I don't know what that means).


A2-70 = 304 SS- 700 N/mm2 Tensile. However the Yeild factor is more important in Brake applications. A2 is a weaker grade than the stock equivlent 8.8 steel.

A k1100rs at 1000lbs/GW exerts aproximatly 2600 Lbf/sq.ft Sheer/F to the front rotor bolts.

8.8 Steel and A4(316) as front rotor bolts have a minimum Yeild of apx. 38,000 Lbf/in.sq.

A2-70 as front rotor bolts have a minimum Yeild of apx. 20,000 Lbf/in.sq.

In both conditions the effictive Yeild is far greater than the required Yeild. But A4 and 8.8 is far superior with 2x the yeild strength. I have used A2-70 on the front rotors and calipers, but with long term fatigue a concern, so now Ill only use A4(316) for Brake application.
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Jim
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PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2008 1:24 pm    Post subject: nuts & bolts Reply with quote

Thanks Breeze! I figured someone would know all that stuff. I was hoping there would be some feedback on the titanium. What do you know about that?
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Jim
1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

"We shall not all die, but we shall all be changed."
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abreeze
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PostPosted: Mon May 05, 2008 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Like Stainless, with 'Ti' you need to know the composition of the Alloy as the values can be so different. Titanium to me is so cost prohibitive...

Even A4(316)SS is 3x the cost of A2(304)SS. And if you go to real high grades of SS. Big Bucks!!

Basically, any bolt with a Yeild of 80-90 kPSI Min. will be suitable for any K11 application. This is equivlent to the stock 8.8 grade steel.

The choice of Metal to be used is dependant on the need. On a race bike the alloy being used might fatigue in 1 race, where as a road bike needs to last years and countless cycles.
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