K11 Owners Group

gpzoduibh · Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 4:41 am Post subject: Transmission joints

A quick question , whats the big deal with synchronizing the couplings on the drive shafts ? is it all that crucial( i.e. I didnt do it when I changed my driveshaft )
Regards to all
Bill Black
_________________
1995 Grinnall Scorpion III(1990 K100 16v motor)
2010 KTM 450 EXC
Moto Guzzi V50 powered hovercraft !
1989 K100RS (8V) special edition
1974 Yamaha DT360
1972 Sanglas 400 T
1980 Yamaha XS110-Watsonian Palma sidecar
1966 Bridgestone 175 dualtwin
1980 BMW R100RS
1979 Bultaco sherpa T 350
1979 Yamaha DT175MX
1990 Honda XR250R

Flying Duck · Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 11:04 am Post subject:

It's somewhat tehcnical (Google "paralever phasing" to find out more) but essentially if the U-joints are out of phase then it causes minor speed variations which can premateurely age U-joints and the rubber cushioning in the front half of the drive shaft.

Paul Glaves (long-time BMW mechanoc and well-respected BMW guru) thinks it's a good idea.

How critical is it REALLY? Not sure.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

tmarshall57 · Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 12:03 pm Post subject:

Being in the middle of dismantling my rear drive (and noticing Snowbum's recent post on this subject) I did some research last night and there are numerous references to the need to ensure that the U-Joint yokes are in line (synced). I did a google on Universal Joint Phasing (or Phase) and there was general agreement that installing Universal joints (or Cardon Joints) out of sync can cause vibration problems. Not sure this is the case given the number of people who have never heard of u-joint syncing.

I wish I could get to the point where I can line up my U-Joints - I still cannot shift the RH pivot pin on the rear drive. I have broken 2 high quality hex sockets and now have a broken hex socket lodged in the hex recess as well as smashed external threads on the pivot pin due to trying to remove with vise grips
_________________
K1100RS Special Edition 1997
Arctic Silver/Black

BMGraeme · Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 12:28 pm Post subject:

When I did my splines I didn't take any attention of lining up anything particularly since I was following BMW's own service/repair manual. Nothing is mentioned in there. I havn't noticed anything out of the ordinary since but then again I don't do high mileage or rev the nuts off the bike either.

I went through 3 hex keys getting that stubborn one out of the rear paralever but good old Halfords kept replacing them for free! It takes a good 20 minutes of gentle heat to help get that one out - good luck with it!
_________________
1980 CB900FA
1994 K1100RS
2008 R1200GSA

Flying Duck · Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 12:43 pm Post subject:

I'm surprised you guys have so much trouble. I've pulled 5 final drives off and have been able to do it without using heat. Four of them were 40k+ bikes so there's a fair chance someone had been in there before me so it might have been easier but my LT only had 14k on it when I got it so I don't think that had been opened up before.

I usually just use the right size Allen wrench(12mm?) with about a foot and a half of pipe for leverage. I use blue (medium) Loctitre for reassembly. I don't care what the factory spec is. That thing is in there pretty tight and I really don't see that there would be enough rotational force on it to actually move it. And since I'll probably be the next person to remove it I'm not going to make extra work for myself.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

Michael · Joined: 04 Nov 2007 Posts: 23 Location: WATERFORD, MI

Bill,

This is a critical detail. If the joints are out of phase then they will vibrate. Enough vibrations can cause fatigue and then failure. If the joints aren't phased correctly, the joints will try and accelerate and decelerate out of sync with each other and hense - vibration. This is a bad thing. Please look at the post "before I do something - advise" . There are pictures of how I labeled my splines with a paint marker to get them lined up. This wasn't a hard task but it was tense because I wanted to make sure they were lined up correctly. Good luck

Mike
_________________
Michael
93' K1100RS

BMGraeme · Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 2:15 pm Post subject:

Flying Duck · Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 3:00 pm Post subject:

Did you take the lock nut off first?
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE

tmarshall57 · Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 3:30 pm Post subject:

gpzoduibh · Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 4:26 am Post subject:

Thanks for all the info I have the back end of the motor-gearbox out

because the clutch is knackered !

So on the way back out I may as well hook them up as suggested , thanks again for the advice
Regards
Bill Black
_________________
1995 Grinnall Scorpion III(1990 K100 16v motor)
2010 KTM 450 EXC
Moto Guzzi V50 powered hovercraft !
1989 K100RS (8V) special edition
1974 Yamaha DT360
1972 Sanglas 400 T
1980 Yamaha XS110-Watsonian Palma sidecar
1966 Bridgestone 175 dualtwin
1980 BMW R100RS
1979 Bultaco sherpa T 350
1979 Yamaha DT175MX
1990 Honda XR250R

max · Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 6:45 pm Post subject:

That's definitely NOT a standard K1100 clutchplate - they're supposed to be a full disk, even on the K75s... was that some special unit for the Grinnall? From the amount of dust in the housing, it doesn't even look like it's a sintered friction material?!

Good luck with the replacement - maybe a standard unit will last longer?

Max