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RS = Real Smooth
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
Posts: 10102
Location: Bumf***, WA

PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 5:07 pm    Post subject: RS = Real Smooth Reply with quote

My RS runs fairly smoothly, but not as smoothly as the LT. I noticed this when movng bikes around last week. Since I'm hanging out in CA I have time to play with the RS. Yesterday morning's project was to get it running more smoothly.




The Bosch plugs that were in there had about 12-13k on them. They looked pretty decent when I removed them. I replaced them with the NGK iridium plugs.

Then I installed the Magnecor 8.5mm competition spark plug leads. Their varied lengths are about the same as the stock spark plugs leads. (I banded them with small zip ties to indicate which cylinder each goes to.)



Then I synched up the throttlebodies with my TwinMax.

It's running VERY smoothly now. Purrfect, in fact. I attribute most of it to the NGK iridium plugs. Not sure how much the spark plug leads help but they certainly can't hurt.
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
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supercat1
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Joined: 11 Aug 2009
Posts: 458
Location: Hoboken, NJ

PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I still need to do the synch. I'm just so cheap and don't want to pay for the tool ...
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2009 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can build your own carb sunch tool (manometer) very cheaply. I plan to build one next month just for kicks. People use various liquids on them. I plan to use ATF.

Google "diy carb sync" and you'll find plenty of examples.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Ernie-NH
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Joined: 14 Oct 2009
Posts: 982
Location: Bristol, New Hampshire

PostPosted: Sun Oct 25, 2009 3:24 pm    Post subject: Taco sauce bottle manometer.... Reply with quote

Hi Supercat...

I did the ( $4 manometer ) as described on Airheads Airlist using ATF, for use with my '76 R100/7. but if balance is way off you'll just suck up the ATF... So went to the "2 taco sauce bottle" version and it works great for both the "K" bike as well as the Dual-Bing carbuerated R100/7. To buld that version, simply get two empty Taco sauce bottles with a wide mouth, 2 double hoe stoppers that will fit the bottles, and about 9 feet of Tygon or similar tubing. Secure the two bottles together with cable ties, fill one of the bottles about 3/4 full of ATF, insert both stoppers securely. Cut about 10 inches of tubing and insert it through one hole of each stopper running the tubing all the way to the base of each bottle. Then cut the remaining tubing length in half and insert one piece into each hole of the stoppers but only until ech just protrudes from the bottom of the stopper. Check that all is tight and then suck the air out of the empty bottle such that the red ATF flows from one side to the other filling each bottle equally. Now you have a twin tube manometer that is very accurate and which will NOT suck all the fluid into your engine !

Is that cheap enough for you ?? It really works, and works well ! I would post a picture here to show you but I dont know how to do that yet !

very best regards......// Ernie-NH
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supercat1
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Joined: 11 Aug 2009
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Location: Hoboken, NJ

PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that does sound basic enough for me.

in terms of pic posting: go to photobucket.com and create an account; upload a photo to there; then copy the code it generates for forum use (should have [ img ] and [ /img ] tags on it); finally you will post that code into a response here and it will display the pic. Smile
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 9:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Taco sauce bottle manometer.... Reply with quote

Ernie-NH wrote:
Hi Supercat...

I did the ( $4 manometer ) as described on Airheads Airlist using ATF, for use with my '76 R100/7. but if balance is way off you'll just suck up the ATF... So went to the "2 taco sauce bottle" version and it works great for both the "K" bike as well as the Dual-Bing carbuerated R100/7. To buld that version, simply get two empty Taco sauce bottles with a wide mouth, 2 double hoe stoppers that will fit the bottles, and about 9 feet of Tygon or similar tubing. Secure the two bottles together with cable ties, fill one of the bottles about 3/4 full of ATF, insert both stoppers securely. Cut about 10 inches of tubing and insert it through one hole of each stopper running the tubing all the way to the base of each bottle. Then cut the remaining tubing length in half and insert one piece into each hole of the stoppers but only until ech just protrudes from the bottom of the stopper. Check that all is tight and then suck the air out of the empty bottle such that the red ATF flows from one side to the other filling each bottle equally. Now you have a twin tube manometer that is very accurate and which will NOT suck all the fluid into your engine !

Is that cheap enough for you ?? It really works, and works well ! I would post a picture here to show you but I dont know how to do that yet !

very best regards......// Ernie-NH


To make that setup more accurate you'd want to start with the same volume of liquid in each bottle.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Scott_Anderson
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Joined: 05 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2009 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ernie, Supercat, I tried something like this.




It was cheap enough to make, the fluid was r.v. antifreeze, but I have to admit it has been cumbersome to use and I haven't been impressed with how it has worked.
It was an experiment, that's how we learn.
I have a twinmax enroute for $50.
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1995 K1100LT 0302044
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Ernie-NH
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Joined: 14 Oct 2009
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Location: Bristol, New Hampshire

PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 5:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good morning Duck...

The volume of liquid equalizes itself by pure atmospheric pressure even with no help from me ( in just a few hours ) such that one gets the the same volume in each Taco bottle. The reason I fill only one bottle 3/4 full at the beginning is so that I dont get too much fluid on either side. The crossover tube fills when you "rough balance" the volumes by sucking on one of the tubes, and then balances itself slowly when you quit. When I attach the two tubes to the carbuerator vacuum ports, the rig reacts instantly to the difference in vacuum levels.. and when I'm through it will balance itself out within an hour, ready for the next time I need it !

Best regards.............// Ernie-NH
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Flying Duck
PsyKotic Waterfowl


Joined: 27 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The issue isn't the volume of liquid per se but how it impacts much air you start with on each side and the compressibility of air. In order to get the best results the initial volume of air on each side should be equal.

Ideal gas law: PV=nRT
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93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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yhog
Mad Brick Rider


Joined: 16 Oct 2004
Posts: 84
Location: Tokyo, JAPAN

PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 9:44 am    Post subject: See this Reply with quote

I have used CABTUNE 2. It is not so costly and easy to syncro 4 cylinder at once Laughing

See this video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZw4xZ7NkoM
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Ernie-NH
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 14 Oct 2009
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Location: Bristol, New Hampshire

PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 9:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Duck...

I gotta tell you.... the volumes of both air and liquid ( light ATF not oil ) are the SAME ! Atmospheric pressure makes it so when the unit is not in use. There is no "compressability" issue since the surface of the liquid in each of the bottles sees ONLY (1) atmospheric pressure via the open tubes when not in use, or (2) vacuum levels being experienced in each of the 2 tubes attached to the carbureator vacuum posts. The crossover tube (red) merely provides for fluid make up from one bottle to the other.







On another question: Based on your experience,,, On the K1100LT ( full fairng ) does the fairing have to be removed to get to the headlight either for replacement of repair ??

Best regards..............// Ernie-NH
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Ernie-NH
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi again Duck...

Meant also to say that the DiSADVANTAGE is that I cannot use t on anything with more than 2 carbs, or 2 venturis.... For the 'ol Airhead ( R100/7 ) it works fine ! For the K-bike, not possible..


Regards .......// Ernie-NH

(ps: sorry for the out of focus pics... its ME not the camera)
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, I understand how those work. I didn't read far enough.

You can use that on a K. Synch 2 to 1, then 3 to 1, then 4 to 1. That's how the TwinMax is used.

Neither the RS nor LT fairing has to be removed to replace the headlight lens. Not sure though if the "bucket" part of the headlight will come out though.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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Ernie-NH
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 14 Oct 2009
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Location: Bristol, New Hampshire

PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Duck....

YES... I didnt think of that ! Use cyl.1 as the base line,,, of course !

Re; the K1100LT fairing.... man I cant see anyway to get in there or get exposure to the bulb from the front. Maybe someone who reads this thread can PM me and tell me how this is done !!

very best regards..............// Ernie-NH
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'11 G650gs
'95 K1100LT
'76 R100/7
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You want to replace the headlight bulb? It comes out from the back. Remove the large rubber boot and pull the connector off. Newer Ks have a Uish spring you pinch together to release the bulb. Older Ks had a ring you rotated the was a real PITA.
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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supercat1
Flying Brick Rider


Joined: 11 Aug 2009
Posts: 458
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well i think i'll give that a shot then. and that should function the same as on your directions, right duck?

also ... what constitutes a taco bottle?
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Jim
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

supercat1 wrote:
also ... what constitutes a taco bottle?


They look like they're made of plastic - other than that, they likely are a container for Taco sauce...
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1997 K1100LTSE 94,000 - still has gremlins!
1995 R100RT Classic 16,650 crashed - repaired!
1992 K75RTP 46,000

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Ernie-NH
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2009 6:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Jim... Hi Supercat...

A "Taco bottle" is taco-sauce bottle ( 8 oz. Ol d Elpaso brand ) made of glass. The bottles are held together with cable wraps after having joined the two with a wooden strip secured to each using Gorilla glue. The bottle assy is now rigid. I chose Old Elpaso first because I LIKE the sauce, but secondly because they have the widest bottle mouths and can accommodate a std. laboratory 2-hole stopper. The tubing is std. Tygon from local hardware store.. The fluid is ATF... I KNOW its cheezy and cheap, but hey... it works for me !!

hope everyone at K11OG has a GREAT day..... ride safe !!

Regards.............// Ernie-NH
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Stoked Steve
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 8:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Duck, how much were those wires?

I've had these one my wish list, only $89.95 a set.

http://www.motoelekt.com/new.htm
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Flying Duck
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2009 8:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got them from http://www.alamomotorsports.com/Magnecor/ for $68 and change.

That was for the 8.5mm competition red ones for the RS. For reasons of color, I got the 8mm blue ones for the LT. I think those were about $57 or something. Those have the same 2mm conductor but slightly less insulation.

Since it's probably going to end up being blue, I also ordered a set for my winter project K75. I think those were $45ish.

So, ordering three sets put my total over $150 so I got free shipping.

You can't order them from their website but if you call them on the phone you can get them.

They don't seem to really grab the top of the plug firmly which had me a bit concerned but I called Magnecor and chatted about that with them on the phone and they said is was nothing to worry about. They seem to be running fine on both of my K1100s though. I'll keep the old ones in the tail cowl for a thousand miles or so as a "just in case."
_________________
93 LT (x2)
94 RS
86-97 K75F(K75/100/1100 Frankenbrick)
86 K75C w/paralever, hi perf cams,TURBO!
91 & 92 K75Ss
91 K1
86 custom K100
14 WR250R
IBA #17739 (SS1K, BBG, 50CC)
Buy parts HERE
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